10/13/09

Welcome to Koh Kong

Koh Kong

Koh Kong is the most southwestern province of Cambodia. It is one of the biggest provinces in the whole country with a long undeveloped coastline and a mountainous, forested and largely inaccessible interior, which embraces part of the Cardamom Mountains, the biggest coherent rainforest of Southeast Asia. Its tourist attractions include abundant wildlife; big waterfalls and casinos on the border to Thailand, while an Export Processing Zone and new port facilities are being developed for international trade.
The province is an increasingly popular gateway to Cambodia from Hat Lek in southern Thailand, in part of the reasonably direct access to the port and beach resort town of Sihanoukville. While this was previously a gruelling journey by boat and pickup on rough bumpy roads using small ferries at river crossings, the donation by the Thai government of new road infrastructure is improving access greatly.

The name means " Kòng Island Province". Its capital is Krong Koh Kong, which is located in the West of the province right next to the Thai border. The city is surrounded with a large forested area connected to the mainland by bridges and ferries. It's generally a quiet town, but there are many reasons to stay in Koh Kong for more than one night such as the nearby islands, rivers, tours into the nature and the buzzing nightlife. The people of Koh Kong speak mainly Khmer, and most speak some Thai as well. You can also find many Chinese and Vietnamese speakers as well as a lot of broken English.
Your stay here will be economical as lodging, food and transportation is relatively cheap here. Please make this place a stop on your travels through S.E. Asia and you won't be disappointed.

Geography

Koh Kong province is 11,160 square kilometres big. It’s located in the West of the country and is bordering to the North with Pursat, to the East and South with the Gulf of Thailand and to the West with Kampot and Sihanoukville. The province consists mainly of a huge coherent mountain range, the Cardamom Mountains. Covered with lush deep rainforest it’s the biggest successional forested region in whole Southeast Asia, which is almost not populated but by some small tribes. There are quite a lot of creeks and rivers running to the see, Stoeng Kaoh Pa and Stoeng Me Toek are the biggest ones.
You won’t find the typical Cambodian plain wet areas, covering rice fields and other agricultural plantations, except from some river benches near the see. The highest point in the province is 1210m.

Population

The current population in this province is about 207,474 people or 1,45% of the country’s total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007, provincial government data), with 107,499 male and 99,975 female. The population density is therefore 18,6 people per square kilometre.

Climate

The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.

Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.

General information about the provincial climate:

- Cool season: November- March (17-27c)
- Hot season: March- May (29c -38c)
- Rainy season: May - October (27-35c, with humidity up to 90%.)

Economy

The economy of Koh Kong, in spite of recent progress of border development, although rapidly increasing, is low compared with most neighbouring countries. The main domestic activity on which most rural households depend is agriculture and its related sub-sectors. Manufacturing output is varied but is not very extensive and is mostly conducted on a small-scale and informal basis. The service sector is heavily concentrated in trading activities and catering-related services.

How to get there

Border Crossing:
Koh Kong (Cambodia) /Hat Lek (Thai):
Open from 7:00 -17:00.

By Bus and Taxi:
It is always travelled by backpackers; there are many comfortable means of getting to Bangkok and Phnom Penh via Koh Kong.

Bangkok to Phnom Penh:
1.) Take a bus to Trat.
2.) Take a Songthaw to Klong Yai, takes 2 hours
3.) Change to another Songthaw to Hat Lek, about 30 min. Then cross the border. You can get the Cambodian 1-month arrival visa on the border. $20 or 1000 Bath. The visa application form requires 1 passport photo.

4.) Take a moto to Koh Kong
5.) Express boat to Sihanoukville, departure 8:00am
To catch up with the Express Boat in a same day, you have to leave Trat very early in the morning. Or take the minibus.

6.) In Sihanoukville, take a moto from the port to the bus station. If you want to travel to PP in a same day, you have to hurry to go to the bus station. You have to ask for the moto fee before, otherwise you are asked to pay a higher fee.

7.) Take a bus to PP, around 4 hours.
It is possible to travel from Koh Kong to PP in a day.

Note: Moto and boat fees have to negotiate before you enter them for travelling.

From Phnom Penh to Bangkok
Overland:
Bus: Capitol Bus departure 7:30 am

Bus + Boat:
1.) Take a bus from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville. To catch up the boat in the same day, you have to take an early bus at 7:30.

2.) Take a moto from the bus station to the boat pier. Make sure you bargain for the moto fee.

3.) Take an express boat from Sihanoukville to Koh Kong. Departure: 12:00 noon. If you want to take the boat in a same day, it is not sure to get the seat as what you want but you can sit on the roof. Travel time around 3.5 hrs,

4.) From Koh Kong to the Border: take a moto driver.

5.) Cross the border. The border is closed at 17:00.

6.) Take a Songthaw to Klong Yai, travel time around 30 min.

7.) Change songthaw to Trat, around 2 hours.

8.) From Trat to Bangkok, there is also a night bus departure.

Attention:
If the boat arrived later than 16:00, you have to take a risk not to be able to cross the border. In case the border is closed once you got there, you have 3 choices.

1) Stay at Eingdoy Hotel, 500m before the border, tel. 039-588109, room rate is around 10 – 15USD per night with TV, Pool Bar.

2) A small Guest House in the village nearby, 1.5 km from the border. Experience the local home stay; room rate is around 5 – 8 USD per night.

3) Go back to Koh Kong town by moto or boat for only 1USD per person.

Share Taxis:
You can also make the way from Phnom Penh to Koh Kong town in a share taxi. The departure is early in the morning around 7am opposite of the central bus station, where there are lots of minibuses and taxis waiting for customers. The ride will probably take around 8-10h depending on the season you’re travelling. The price is negotiable between $14-20.

Motorbike Info:
If you would like to experience a very nice, but kind of rough route through a remote area of Cambodia, than it’s that tour you’ll have to go for. You need to take the National Highway No 4 from Phnom Penh in direction of Sihanoukville. After heading on the Highway for around 180km you’ll pass a small town called Kampong Seila, from which it is a couple of kilometres more to come to a T-junction. Now turning right you’re entering the Minor Road No 48. It’s a narrow road badly paved with laterite, which makes an adventure out of your trip. You should be well experienced to manage this bumpy, creek-crossing road during the wet season without tasting the ground. As the road led through a breathtaking countryside you’ll reach Koh Kong after approx. 140km. Be sure that the early bird catches the worm so don’t go to late as you want to manage the whole trip within one day.

Where to eat

Koh Kong offers many small restaurants and places to eat. There is especially two we would recommend: Otto's Restaurant, rooms and meeting place & the Foreigner Food Restaurant (But don't order any beef meal here, only Otto's can be trusted). It seems the larger restaurants have just cookbook cutouts for their menus with no prices listed. You will be charged according to what you look like. Don’t wonder if some of the restaurant owners are sometimes quite impolite; just pass them over if possible. The best budget meals are the stalls in and around Psar Leu.

Baan Peakmai:
That’s a Thai-style garden restaurant, which is the most alluring one among the few remaining opportunities. They have a huge menu including more than 35 vegetarian choices and a range of fresh seafood.

Otto’s:
Set on the breezy veranda of the guesthouse, this Western-style restaurant makes a convenient stop for a quick breakfast before taking a boat to Sihanoukville. The dinner includes Thai food, several hearty vegetarian choices and a selection of central European dishes, including for example one of the best bratwurst Cambodia has to offer.

Heng Heng Restaurant:
This is quite a popular Khmer restaurant for tasty Chinese and Cambodian breakfast of noodle soup and “Bobor” (rice porridge), but it lacks the atmosphere to warrant a good stop for a dinner.

Samras Angkor Restaurant:
If you are eager to go for Cambodian dishes, that’s the place to pop in. They serve lots of fine Cambodian dishes here. Coming from Thailand you might try the famous Lok Lak or Fish Amok. If you’re to easily to distract by some loud karaoke music, it’s not your place though.

Where to stay

Hotels:

There are only five hotels here and the rest are guesthouses. The guesthouses are simple and basic rooms, some have Asian style (squat) bathrooms inside the room and the average price is 5 – 8 USD for fan and 8 – 15 USD with air-con. Some guesthouses have no-bathroom rooms for 4 USD per room and night.

Note: The first time you get here, the motorcycle taxis will try to overcharge you. The real rate is 2000 Riel or 20 Baht per ride.
Bopha Koh Kong Hotel *
Koh Kong International Resort Club (L) * Safari World is now open!
Koh Pich Hotel *
Phou Mint Koh Kong Hotel *
Rasmey Makara Hotel *

Guesthouses:

Cheap Charlies Guesthouse
Juliana Guest House
Khounchhang Hotel
Koh Kong Hotel Koh Lap Chai Den Hotel
Nokor Reach Koh Kong Hotel
Otto's Restaurant Rooms & Meeting Place
Pai Lin Guest House
Penh Cheth Guest House
Ponl Eupreah Chan Penh Vong Guesthouse
Poy Sian Guesthouse
Sovann Angkor Guesthouse

Bopha Koh Kong Hotel: (tel: 011/741040)
This hotel is easily to find, because its just two blocks east of the Sihanoukville boat pier located. It has its own restaurant and rooms at different rates.
Single Room: ground floor, air-con, fridge, Sat TV, $8 usd
Single Room: 3rd floor, air-con, fridge, Sat TV, $10
Double Room: air-con, fridge, Sat TV, $13 usd
VIP Room: air-con, fridge, Sat TV, hot water & sitting area, $25 usd

Koh Pich Hotel: (tel: 035/936113)
You may like this hotel, because it is up to international standards. Hotel, restaurant, nightclub, Karaoke & meeting hall for 60.
VIP Room: air-con, cable TV, fridge, $15 usd
Twin Room: cable TV, air-con, $15 usd
Queen Room: cable TV, air-con, $10 usd
Fan Room: bathroom inside, $5

Phou Mint Koh Kong Hotel: (tel: 011/948255)
Located on the river between the Sihanoukville boat pier and the Koh Kong Bridge, this is a new hotel with a beautiful view of the river.
1st Floor: air-con, fridge & TV, $10 usd; fan fridge & TV $6 usd; fan & TV, only $5 usd
2nd Floor: air-con, TV hot water & tub, $15 usd; air-con & TV $12 usd

Rasmey Makara Hotel: (tel: 035/936058)
This is a European standard hotel located south east of the traffic circle. Downstairs rooms are $10 usd with air-con, TV and bath. A single room cost $8, the double room cost $10 and the VIP room is at $13. The rooms have air-con, fridge, TV and Western style bathroom. The whole complex is very modern with garden area and sitting area, massage and Karoke are available on the grounds. The restaurant is known for tasty seafood and live music from 6 pm to 12 midnight.

Cheap Charlies Guesthouse: (tel: 016/853450)
There is no place to have a cheaper accommodation in town, 50baht per pax. The rooms are really basic and seem to some people as small cells with shared bathroom. Anyway the friendly family will make you feel like home. This place is also a good source for traveller info. A small restaurant is included serving tasty Western and Asian dishes.

Otto’s: (tel: 093/6211)
Otto's restaurant, rooms & meeting place has rooms for: Single room 80 baht, Double room 100 baht & large double room for 120 baht. TV is available for an extra fee. Otto's has good food, is a place to relax and is a central meeting place for friends both old and young. The food and drinks come at fair prices. River and island tours by boat can be arranged. Note: Otto's is open, it seems a few unscrupulous m/c taxi drivers are saying Otto's is closed because he does not pay them a commissions.

Pai Lin Guest House: (tel: 015/836570)
Pai Lin Guesthouse is located south east of the traffic circle. The rates are 100 Baht for a fan room and 200 Baht for a room with air-con. Bathroom is inside the room.

Shopping

Most of the products are imported from Thailand, except vegetables, fruits and some local foods. There are a couple of clothing shops across the street from the eastern side of the market selling clothes from Thailand as well. Some small shops along the road on the southern side of the market stay open until 10pm.

Where to see

Cham Yeam Resort

Cham Yeam Resort is located in Mondul Seima district, about 10 kilometers northwest of Koh Kong provincial town, near the Cambodian-Thai international border. Cham Yeam is a semi-natural site developed 1997 by Neak Oknha Li Yong Phat. He name it Koh Kong International Resort. Today it attracts many tourists, especially Thais.
Cham Yeam Resort is one of the most beautiful resorts in Cambodia because it have five-star hotels, guest houses, several casinos and international zoo, Koh Kong Safari World. Cham Yeam Beach features beautiful coconut trees.
The Cham Yeam border checkpoint is open from 8am until 5pm and from 10pm to 11pm to accommodate the import and export of goods.

Kbal Chhay E91 Waterfall

Nature and Wildlife Reserve near Nengkok Village, Bakclong Commune, Mundol Seyma District, 24km (2h:15mn) from the Provincial Town.

Kbal Chhay or Koh Por

Kbal Chhay waterfall is located in Mondul Seima district, about 16 kilometers north of Koh Kong provincial town. Kbal Chhay or Koh Por is a natural site along a high mountain range and forest. To reach Koh Por, visitors travel along a stream amid beautiful scenery.

Kbal Chhay gets its water from the Pursat stream. The waterfall is 10 meters high and 8 meters wide during the rainy season. In dry season there is less water, so locals and tourists visit the site and relax under the big rocks that resemble a cave.

Kbal Chhay Prek Koh Waterfall

Nature and Wildlife Reserve near Neng Kok Village, Bakclong Commune, Mundol Seyma District, 22km (15mn) from the Provincial Town.

Khun Chhang Khun Phen

Khun Chhang Khun Phen stupa sits on a rock in the middle of the sea tributary, about 1 kilometer from the provincial town. The stupa is 4 meters high and made of concrete. Because the site is small-only 40 square meters, including the stupa-it can accommodate only 10 to 15 visitors at a time. The stupa is about 1 kilometer from the provincial town. Koh Kong residents worship there and often visit the site on national holidays and traditional festivals.

Khun Chhang Khun Phen is related to a Khmer legend. Once upon a time, there was villager's daughter named Thim, who was loved by a man named Khun Chhang. Khun Chhang was bold-headed and not very handsome, but his family was rich.

Thim, however, did not love Khun Chhang, they became engaged and Khun Chhang married her. She later betrayed her husband to love a commander named Khun Phen. When Khun Chhang learned of his wife's affair, he complained to the King. The King decided to cut Thim's body into two parts. After Thim died, Khun Chhang buried her at the same place where she was killed. Because he wanted her to be reincarnated, Khun Chhang put up a soul flag pole on the east bank of the stream, facing where Thim was buried. Then he built a stupa in memory of their love. Later, the west bank of the stream was named Chetdey (a stupa) village, and the east bank was named Dangtung (a flage pole) village.

Koh Moul Resort (Koh Kong Krau)

Koh Moul, the biggest island in Cambodia, is 22 kilometers long and 7 kilometers wide. The island is located in Koh Kong district, about 24 kilometers south of Koh Kong provincial town. Koh Moul is 350 meters above sea level. The island has many hills and is rich in natural scenery.

Koh Kong Krav has more than 10 waterfalls that range from 6 to 25 meters in height. Koh Moul features 6 beautiful beaches, known as Deum Dong Beach 1 to 6, that range from 3,000 to 5,000 meters long. All have beautiful white sand and limpid water. The water surrounding the island are full of black and white dolphines that appear along the beach from 9 to 10:30 in the morning and 5 to 7:30 in the evening.

Koh Sdech

Koh Sdech is located in Kirisakor district, about 81 kilometers south of Koh Kong provincial town. It attracts visitors from Sihanoukville and Sre Ambil district.

Koh Sdech features a long beach, and the sea is filled with a variety of fish. The site is excellent for snorkeling or scuba diving, as the water is clear, and an array of coral can be seen growing at the bottom of the sea.

According to legend, there once was a king who commanded an army on the island. Because there was no fresh water, the king searched everywhere to find some. At last he found a rock near the sea. Thinking the rock might contain water, the king drew his sword and split open the rock, releasing an endless flow of water that local people still use today.

Lam Da Beach

Recreational area with parks and beaches at Lam Da Village, Koh Kapi Commune, Koh Kong District 20km (1h:45mn) from the Provincial Town.

Prek Chik O'srey Sranash

Nature and Wildlife Reserve o­n road 48, Chhmarbak Village, Bakclong Commune, Smach Mean Chey District, 6km (10min) from the Provincial Town.

Sner Beach

Recreational area: parks and beaches. Road 48, Dong Tung Commune, Smachmean chey District. 17km(25mn) From Provincial Town.

Ta Tai Waterfall

Ta Tai waterfall is a semi-natural site located in Ta Tai village, Ta Tai commune, Smach Meanchey district, about 20 kilometers east of Koh Kong provincial town along National Road 48. There are 84 families living in this area. They earn their living by fishing and hunting.

The waterfall has two stages. The first stage is 5 to 6 meters high; the second stage is 12 to 15 meters high. Ta Tai waterfall was developed as a model site in Koh Kong to attract local and foreign tourists.

Ta Tai waterfall is also known as Ta Eysei waterfall. According to legend, a man named Ta Tai and his son went to the waterfall to fish because the waterfall was the joining point between fresh water and salt water. There was a storm and the resulting floods carried away Ta Tai's son. Four or five days later, however, the boy was found at the same spot from where he disappeared. When Ta Tai questioned his son, the boy said: "There is someone who took me to a secret place, where he turned into a vampire and wanted to kill me. But suddenly Ta Eysei (a hermit) appeared to save me and took me back." After hearing the story, Ta Tai and his wife believed that their son was saved by Ta Eysei or Neak Sachang (another mane of hermit). Ever since then, the Waterfall has been called Ta Eysei Waterfall or Ta Tai Waterfall.

Veal Achaut Waterfall

Nature and Wildlife Reserve o­n road 48, Dong Tung Commune, Smachmean chey District. 45km (1h) from the Provincial Town.

10/12/09

Welcome to Takeo

Takeo

Takeo province is often referred to as “the cradle of Cambodian civilisation” Takeo province has several important pre-Angkorian sites built between the 5th and the 8th century. The provincial capital, Takeo town is an easygoing place that possesses a fair amount of natural and manmade beauty. The natural beauty is in the Scenic River and lake area that faces a pleasant town parkway. The low-lying area seems to include much of the surrounding province area, which is probably why a kingdom that once had its heart here was referred to as Water Chenla. There seems to be water everywhere in the surrounding countryside during the rainy season.

The man-made beauty mostly comes from a series of canals and waterways that were cut through the surrounding countryside, many a very long time ago, connecting towns, villages, rivers and Vietnam. Nearby Angkor Borei town (connected by water to Takeo town) may have been the heart of the Funan Empire, which is called the “Cradle of Khmer Civilization” by Cambodians. Much older than Angkor, the Funan empire had its heyday between the 1st and 6th centuries and stretched across a vast area, from South Vietnam through Thailand, down through Malaysia and into Indonesia. Bold, silver and silks were traded in abundance in the kingdom, or, as some say, the series of fiefdoms.

Although Cambodians claim Funan was created by Khmers, neighbouring Vietnam argues that they were the people of origin. Archaeologists from the University of Hawaii of the USA have made research trips to Angkor Borei in an attempt to piece together the history and story, and story, as well as relics, of the Funan period. In an odd recent twist, Reuters News Service reported in early November 1999 that locals saw the research team digging up ancient relics and figured the stuff must be valuable, so they started digging and looting objects from the area. Fortunately, the Cambodian government seems to be moving in on the problem quickly to try to save what they can of this important piece of Khmer heritage.

That was not the first time the locals have created problems in the piecing together of ancient history. Much of what did remain in the form of ancient ruins in Angkor Borei was destroyed not too long ago in the modern past. The officials that runs the museum that’s dedicated to the history of the Funan empire told me that much of what was still standing from this period (from parts of ancient walls to partial structures) was thought to be useless by locals and was bulldozed and razed to make way for more “useful” modern day structures! Talk about having a bad track record. Fortunately artifacts and history have been put together in the museum.
Takeo Province is full of other interesting sights as well and because of the short distance and good road from Phnom Penh, all are great day trips. Some sights can be combined in a day trip. If you have a bit more time, spend an evening in Takeo town and take in all the sights. There is a pleasant little place to stay overlooking the river and lake area.

Geography

Takeo province is 3,563 square kilometres big. It’s located in the South of the country bordering to the North and East with Kandal, to the West with Kampong Speu and Kampot and to the South with Vietnam. The low-lying area seems to include much of the surrounding province area, which is probably why a kingdom that once had its heart here was referred to as Water Chenla. There seems to be water everywhere in the surrounding countryside during the rainy season.

Therefore the province consists of the typical plain wet area for Cambodia, covering rice fields and other agricultural plantations. The province also features one of the biggest rivers of the country (symbolizing the provincial border to the East), the Tonle Bassac (also known as the “Red River”).

Population

The current population in this province is about 924,758 people or 6.4% of the country’s total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007, provincial government data), with 445,000 male and 479,758 female. The population density is therefore 259.5 people per square kilometre.

Climate

The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.

Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.

General information about the provincial climate:

- Cool season: November- March (22-28c)
- Hot season: March- May (28c -36c)
- Rainy season: May - October (24-32c, with humidity up to 90%.)

Economy

Takeo’s economy consists basically of agricultural farming, fishery, rice and fruit cropping. Especially the rural households depend on agriculture and its related sub-sectors.

How to get there

Bus:
Phnom Penh and Takeo province are linked by the National Highway No 2, which remains in reasonable condition with a few potholes to slow the velocity down. Hour Lean and PPPT bus companies both run air-con buses between Phnom Penh and Takeo (6000riel, 2hours, 77km). They leave from the Central Station just southwest from the Central Market in PP. Leaving of to PP from Takeo you may find the buses in front of the Phsar Leu. Both buses have to pass Tonlé Bati and Phnom Chisor, both interesting sides of attraction.

Share Taxis/Moto:
The price from PP by share taxi is around 6000riel, by minibus around 3000riel. Travellers continuing by road to Kampot should take a moto (5000riel) for the 13km journey Angk Tasaom and then arrange a seat in a minibus or share taxi (5000riel) on to Kampot.
For 1000 riel you can get anywhere in town. The daily rate is US$ 5 plus fuel for distant sights.

Motorbike Info:
Phnom Penh and Takeo province are linked by the National Highway No 2, which remains in reasonable condition with a few potholes to slow the velocity down. This is a maximum 2 hours ride for merit skilled motorbikers.
If your motorcycle has a mechanic problem, head back to Phnom Penh, as it’s only an hour away. Call your rental outfit in Phnom Penh (always carry theft rental agreement) and they will come down to perform motorcycle surgery or haul the bike back to Phnom Penh.

Where to eat

There are a couple of decent Khmer food restaurants near the waterfront, after the canal that heads to Vietnam, Angkor Borei and Phnom Da. You may also find plenty of cookeries in the area around the Independence Monument. By night this is the place to snack on Cambodian desserts or enjoy a “tukalok” (fruitshake). And as for the night scene, there just isn’t much going on in Takeo town –your best bet is to take it easy and remember that Phnom Penh is only an hour away.

Apsara Restaurant:
This is an alternative spot for a good Cambodian meal during the dry season, when this part of the town is less stinky than the area near the water. It has an English menu and some tasty soups are a worth a recommendation.

Restaurant Stung Takeo:
This place is built on stilts, as the whole area becomes a giant lake during the wet season. The restaurant overlooks the canal to Angkor Borei, and it’s one of the most popular lunch stops in town. It’s a good place to tuck into some Khmer food before making a trip to Angkor Borei and Phnom Da.

Doun Keo Restaurant:
This place is one of the first restaurants that you encounter as you enter Takeo from Phnom Penh. It’s a friendly simple place, which feature rather decent Khmer and Chinese food.

Where to stay

There are some reasonable options to get your head on a bed in Takeo, although the proximity of Phnom Penh means that few travellers actually spend a night here. Backpacker options could also be found at the empty Phsar Nat (also overlooking).

Mittapheap Hotel: (tel: 032/931205)
This hotel might be an option for those who have a particular attraction to Cambodian Independence Monuments, as this one overlooks Takeo’s. There is good cheap food nearby, a fortune. Don’t be put of by the old house at the front, s the owners have added a new wing in a leafy green garden at the back, with the smartest air-con rooms in town. Prices range from $5-10.

Angkor Borei Guesthouse: (tel: 032/931340)
That’s a friendly family-run place, which has a bewildering array of rooms available and all at the same price. Some of them are bigger, some are smaller, some have TV and air-con, some don’t, but in the interest of equality everyone pays the same. Have a look before, than choose.

Boeung Takeo Guesthouse: (tel: 032/931306)
This is likely the best place in town, overlooking the lake. All rooms are essentially the same (bath, fan, TV), but for $10 you can get an air-con breeze. Ask for a room with a view, as it won’t be more expensive. Prices from $5-10.

Phnom Sonlong Guesthouse: (tel: 032/931404)
This guesthouse is right next door to the Angkor Borei and offers more or less the same array and equipment as the Ankor Borei, but is a little less in the price. Some rooms have only one bed, check it out before. Some of the staffs speak good English.

Shopping

As it is quite common in Cambodia even small cities, such as Takeo have at least one bigger market (some small marts too). So you may also find a market in Takeo centre, which is a busy area with local shops dealing the local daily consumer products, like fish, fruits, vegetables, meats and packed products (also a lot from Vietnam). Most of the food and drink shops are surrounding the market.

Where to see

Angkor Borie

Angkor Borie is a town in the area of several ruins and archaeological digs. The area contains artifacts dating from the Funan (4th/5th century) and Water Chenla (8th century) as well as the later Angkorian period. The prasat ruins on top of nearby Phnom Da are 11th century Angkorian. There is a smalll museum in the town.

Chruos Phaork

Chruos Phaork is located in Pou Village, Preah Bat Choan Chum Commune, Kiri ong District 44 kilometers (1h:6mn) from Provincial Town. It is the Nature Wildlife and Preserves.

Chup Pol Temple

Chup Pol Temple is located in Doun Peaeng Village, Baray Commune, Doun Kae District, about 3 kilometers (4mn) from Provincial Town. It is the Historical Sites and Buildings.

Museum

Museum is located in Takeo province, there is a museum located at Ang Kor Bo Rey District. The museum is just built under auspice of EU organization for keeping and displaying status and ancient objects of Phnom Da in 6th century for tourists and researchers.

Neang Khmao Temple

Neang Khmao temple is located in Rovieng commune, Samrong district, off National Road 2, about 27 kilometers north of Takeo provincial town or about 52 kilometers south of Phnom Penh. This temple is inside Wat Neang Khmao.

Constructed of sandstone and brick in the style of Koh Ker, the temple was built by King Jayavarman IV (AD 921-941) in the 10th century for the worship of Brahmanism. The site originally consisted of three temples built side by side, however, only two are still standing, and both are heavily damaged.

Phnom Ba Yong

Phnom Bayang is located in Por Rorng village, Preah Bat Choan Chum commune, Kirivong district, about 43 kilometers south of Takeo provincial town or about 121 kilometers south of Phnom Penh. From Phnom Penh, take National Road 2 via Bati, Sam Rong, Daun Keo and Trang districts.

Bayang temple was built between AD 615 and 635 by King Pavavarman II on the top of Phnom Bayong, a 313-meterhigh mountain. Its diameter is 13 meters by 9 meters and it is 12 meters high. Constructed of laterite, brick and other stones, it is heavily damaged. Pieces of the temple litter the
ground; the roof has collapsed, and the laterite rampart has been damaged.

Bayang temple is a historical site that attracts both foreigners and Cambodians doing research about their ancestors. The road to the mountain, however, is old and difficult to access in the thick forest. The temple is reachable by climbing 390 steps. In addition to Bayang, there are four other temples on the mountain-Preah Kor temple, North Kanang temple, East Kanang temple and Kampoul Kanang temple. All are for Brahman worship and contain a Silva lingam.

Visitors to the site will come to understand how Cambodian history and culture was influenced by the outside world. Because without access to the mountain, however, the only people who will visit the site are researchers studying Cambodian history.

In Kirivong District, there is a stream, Pha Oak, which flows 1,000 meters from its source to where people congregate to swim or bathe. The stream is 6 meters wide during the rainy season and 2 meters wide during the dry season. The sound of the water falling from the mountaintop is almost musical, and the scenery is beautiful.

Phnom Chiso (Chiso Mountain)

Phnom Chiso is a historical site located in Sia village, Rovieng commune, Samrong district, about 62 kilometers south of Phnom Penh or 27 kilometers north of Takeo provincial town. To reach the site, take National Road 2 to Bati district and Neang Khmao temple. Turn right at the sign for the site and head down the dirt trial for 5 more kilometers. Phnom Chiso is 13O-meter-high mountain.

Phnom Chiso temple was built in the early 11th century by King Suryavarman I (AD 1002-1050), who practiced Brahmanism. Constructed of sandstone and other stones, it is 60 meters long and 50 meters wide and sits atop a mountain. The temple is surrounded by two galleries. The first gallery is 60 meters long on each side. The second, smaller gallery, is in the middle, where there is the main worship place with two doors and a wooden statue. There are beautiful sculptures on the lintel and the pillars.

Phnom Chiso Pagoda was built in 1917, destroyed by war during the 1970s and rebuilt in 1979. Behind it is a hall called Thammasaphea, kof and a worship place. There is an ancient water tank made of concrete. People usually climb the staircase on the west side of the mountain, which has 390 steps and descend by the south side staircase, which has 408 steps. Another set of stairs in front of the temple links the temple to Sen Chhmos temple, Sen Phouvang temple and Tonie Om, a lake considered sacred by Brahmans and used for washing away sins. A large rock yard nearby about 100 meters long and 80 meters was once the site of several other temples, but only parts of these temples remain standing.

In addition, there is a mountain cave, Vimean Chan, located about 150 meters south of the temple. It is a quiet place for Brahmans or ascetics to meditate. During the Americans' war with Vietnam, the site was bombed, dislodging several large rocks that block the entrance to the cave today.
Hun Sen Phnom Chiso Agricultural and Tourist site is located in Samrong, Bati and Prey Kabas districts. It includes a 513 hectare paddy rice field of dry rice, a 1,386 hectares field of wet rice and three water basins - Thnos Ta Kong, Tuol Lork and Sen Pea Ream.
Phnom Chiso is very popular with visitors, especially during festivals, when it is very crowded. The top of the mountain affords visitors a panoramic view of Takeo Province rice paddies stretching for kilometers.

Phnom Da

Phnom Da is located in Prek Ta Phor village, Kork Thalork commune, Angkor Borei district, about 24 kilometers east of Takeo provincial town by water canal or about 102 kilometers south of Phnom Penh by the road. This part of the country is flooded six months of the year, during the rainy
season, and dry the rest of the year.

Phnom Da is a cultural, historical site that has been renovated to provide visitors a place to relax or research Cambodian history. The scenery is beautiful all year. In the rainy season, there is a vast water basin that produces lush, green rice paddies during the dry season.

Phnom Da temple was built on the top of a small hill in 6th century by King Rutravarman, who reigned during the Norkor Phnom period, according to the French historian Mibreno. The temple is 12 meters square and 18 meters high. It was constructed of laterite, brick and sandstone. A Brahman temple, it faces north towards Norkor Kork Thalork, which was the capital of Nokor Phnom at the time the temple was built. There is no rampart.

The temple's peak is damaged, and a sculpture depicting the story of Churning of the Ocean of Milk(Cambodian calls Ko Samutra Teuk Dos) has been broken into two parts. A lintel illustrates the figure of sleeping Vishnu. There are false doors on three sides and a real door that opens on the north side.

In the flank of the hill are five man-made caves that reflect the style of Phnom Da, which is similar to India style. In each cave, there is a Shiva lingam and Uma yoni, objects that Brahmans worship. During the Pol Pot regime, between 1975 and 1979, the caves were used as cremation places by the Khmer Rouge.

About 300 meters southwest of the temple is another smaller temple known as Asrom Moha Eysei. Built at the end of the 6th century in Zhenla Period, during the reign of King Pavavarman I, the temple has five windows and two doors. It is 5.5 meters square and 7 meters high, it is built in the
Indian style and features a double wall of basalt that faces north.

In 1992, a number of clergymen and nuns built a pagoda south of the hill. It is called Phnom Da pagoda.

Nearly three decades of war have left the road from Phnom Chiso to Angkor Borei district in poor condition; during the rainy season, flooding makes it impassable. Nevertheless, the site attracts foreign tourists and many Cambodians interested in researching Cambodian history during the Koh
Kork Thlork Period.

After 1979, the Takeo provincial authority constructed a canal, Canal 15, which links Takeo provincial town to Angkor Borei district. This has made access easier since the road between Angkor Borei and Phnom Da is still difficult to travel, especially during the rainy season, when it floods.

Phnom Ta Mao (Zoo)

Phnom Ta Mao (Zoo) is located in Tro Pang Sap village, Tro Pang Sap commune, Ba Ti District, Takeo province. Phnom Tamao can be accessible by the National Road No 2 in 40-kilometre distance from Phnom Penh. Then turning right more five kilometers by a trail, it takes 45-minute drive from Phnom Penh. Phnom Ta Mao is a varied site consisting of temples, mountain, nature and a big zoo in Cambodia. Phnom Ta Mao has 2,500-hectar land area called forest-protected area; in this area, the Department of Forestry has taken 1,200-hectar land area for planning trees and 70-hectar land area for organizing zoo. The 70-hectar landarea consisting of five mountains namely: Phnom Ta Mao, Phnom Thmor Dos, Phnom Phdan Poan, Phnom Chhoy and Phnom Bang. Among the five mountains, two mountains have ancient temples are: - Ta Mao Temple (is located at Phnom Ta Mao): was built in 11th century during the reign of the king, Soryak Varman I dedicated to Brahmanism, the temple made of Thmor silt and red-solid brick, located on the peak of 30-meter mountain of Ta Mao, near Ta Mao pagoda. Now, the temple is damaged and is almost unrecognizable. - Thmor Dos Temple (is located at Phnom Thmor Dos): The temple is located on a 35-meter mountain of Thmor Dos, Northwest of Ta Mao temple and was built in 11th century. The temple made of Thmor silt mad red-solid brick. Now, most of the temples are damaged. The people want to go to this temple to worship than Ta Mao temple. In addition, Phnom Ta Mao has a big zoo in Cambodia; the zoo is under the supervision of the Department of Forestry, Ministry of Agriculture and has 84 varieties of animals and birds; two kinds of them are brought from abroad. - There are 150-fourfooted animals consisting of 38 kinds. - There are 300 birds consisting of 38 kinds. - There are 30 reptiles consisting of eight kinds. All these animals are brought here by the Ministry of Agriculture and by seizing from offenders who illegally traffic in wild animals through out Cambodia. To take care these animals, we need to expend US$ 120 per day for food, and 22 staff and workers are working there. The average number of tourists visiting Phnom Ta Mao is 500-600 visitors per week; but during the festivals, there are 7,000-8,000 visitors per week. The local people of four communes around the Phnom Ta Mao are earning money from selling food to tourists. We can extend package-tour program to the above two resorts because these resorts are the popular sites for local and international tourists, and their location is near Phnom Penh. As the sites can attract many tourists, we expect to lure investors to invest in tourist facilitation and constructing the trail from the national Road No 2 to the resorts. The Department of Forestry has a project on constructing an inside trail linking from Tonle Ba Ti to Phnom Ta Mao in Six-Kilometre distance.

Phnom Ta Moa

Phnom Ta Mao is located in Tropiang Sap Villag, Tropiang Sap commune, Bati district, about 40 kilometers south of Phnom Penh, off National Road No. 2. Turn right at the sign and travel another 5 kilometers down a dirt trail. The site features mountains, the biggest national zoo and ancient temples. There are five mountains at this site - Phnom Tamao, Phnom Thma Dos, Phnom Pdaov Pun, Phnom Chhoy and Phnom Bang. The entire site covers 2,500 hectares, most of it is the protected forest area. The Ministry of Agriculture's Department of Foresty has taken over 1,200 hectares for planting trees and the zoo.
Phnom Ta Mao National Zoo covers 70 hectares and is under the supervision of the department. It features 84 varieties of birds, quadrupeds and reptiles. The animals, which include alligators, elephants, lions, tigers and bears, were collected by the Ministry of Agriculture. Some were recovered from people illegally trafficking wildlife in Cambodia.
The two ancient temples of Phnom Tamao are:
  • Tamao Temple (Phnom Tamao)
Tamao temple was built in 11th century, during the reign of King Suryavarman I and Udayadityavarman II (AD 1050 - 1066) as a place for Brahmans to worship. Tamao Temple was made of silt stone and red solid brick, but is now nearly unrecognizable. The temple is located near Tamao pagoda on the top of Phnom Tamao, which is about 30 meters high.
  • Thma Dos Temple (Phnom Thma Dos)

Thma Dos Temple is nothwest of Phnom Tamao on the 35 meter-high Phnom Thma Dos. The temple was built in the 11th century and is constructed of silt stone and red solid brick. Much of the temple is 7.5 meters squar and 13 meters high. Its design is adapted from Khliang style. This temple is more popular with visitors than Tamao temple.

Ta Prohm Temple

This temple, adapted from Bayon Style, was built during the late 12th and early 13th centuries, during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (AD 1181 - 1120) as a place of worship for Brahmans and Buddhists.
The temple is 42 meters long, 36 meters wide and 11 meters high. Today the temple body, the gallery, the wal, the gopura (gateway) and the moat surrounding the temple are heavily damaged. The temple was constructed of brick and laterite and devided into many rooms. The outsite wall is decorated with bas-reliefs illustrating the Brahman story about the celestial nymph. Insite the temple are five rooms and a 13th century Buddha statue that faces east.

Tonle Bati

Tonle Bati is a popular lake and picnic area that has bamboo shacks built out over the water that people can rent out for eating and whiling away the day. It’s generally a weekend get-away spot, which means it’s nice and quiet during the week. Locals swim there, but the water does not look real inviting.

There are all kinds of food and drink stands that sell everything you need for a picnic along the lake. Note that there are tours that follow you when you arrive on weekends and try to get you to go to their own place. It’s best to pass right by them and find a spot on your own. Check prices beforehand on everything – they are famous for handing you an outrageously high bill when you depart.
Tonle Bati is a place of worship and features two ancient temples, Ta Promh and Yeay Peov, and a pagoda, Wat Tonle Bati, which was built in 1576.

Wat Phnom Khliang

Wat Phnom Khliang, a Buddhist pagoda built in 1753, is a natural cultural site located in Prey Slek commune, Trang district, about 12 kilometers south of Takeo provincial town near National Road 2. It is a popular place for taking oaths and praying. During the Khmer Rouge regime it was used as a hospital. The red gravel at the foot of the mountain was dug to repair and construct a nearby trail. The entire site covers 11 hectares, Phnom Kliang is the middle. The hill is 30 meters high, and at the top is a new pagoda built in 1992 sponsored by Prime Minister Hun Sen.
The site attracts mostly local visitor who are superstitious and who are looking for a nice place to relax. At the top of the mountain is a granite stone from which water flows all year. Local people believe that the stone is magical.

Yeay Pov Temple

Yeay Pov temple is behind Wat Tonle Bati, about 100 meters from Ta Prohm temple. Constructed of sandstone in the 12 century, it is 7 meters square and faces east.
Apart from the temple is a house on the bank of Tonle Bati, about 200 meters from the temple, that once was used by the royal family during holidays. Today this place houses the offices of Bati Tourism Company, which controls the 9.3 hectare site. The company has erected 48 resting cottages with zinc roofs and another 40 cottages with leaf roofs along the riverside. The company has also built nine restrooms, and other restrooms are available at local people's residences.
In additional, there is also a natural lake that is 7,000 meters long. During the dry season, the lake is 1,000 meters wide and 1 to 2.5 meters deep. During the rainy season, it swells to 1, 500 meters wide and is about 4 meters deep.
There is a fee to enter the site. The cost for cambodian is 1,000 riel (USD0.25) for motobikes and 2,000 riel (USD0.50) for cars. The fee for resting cottages is 5,000 riel (USD1.25) per cottage. Foreigners are charged USD2 per person. Food can be purchased at the site.
The site is very popular, attracting 500 to 600 Cambodians and 100 foreign visiter per week. During holidays and festivals, the number of visitors can reach 9,000 per week. The site also provide employment opportunities and a good living for the people of the nearby Thnal Teaksin and Tonle Bati villages.

Welcome to Svay Rieng

Svay Rieng

Svay (pronounced Swai) Rieng is on of the smallest and sleepiest Cambodian provinces that just happen to have one of the country’s busiest highways running straight through - National Highway No 1, which links Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam just after you cross the Mekong River by way of the Neak Loeung Ferry. It is also one of the poorest provinces of Cambodia due to the poor quality of the land. Most of the provincial population eke out a subsistence living based on farming and fishing.
Svay Rieng is the provincial capital, a sleepy town just 43 km from the Bavet border crossing. This is a fairly prosperous place as a result of the border trade traffic, business people and travellers passing trough. The town is a very friendly place and makes for a pleasant overnight stop whether coming from or going to Vietnam.
Svay Rieng town is situated near the Waiko River and its vast, scenic marshlands, the result of a wide stretch of the river drying up significantly over the years. It’s a pleasant setting and one that can be enjoyed at several different spots along the river and marsh. A bridge over the Waiko, not far from the main part of town, bears a plaque that states prime minister Hun Sen donated the bridge.
During the long Vietnam War, American forces believed that this was the place, where Vietnamese communists had their intelligence headquarter. For sure there were undoubtedly a lot of Vietnamese communists hiding especially in the South of Cambodia during much of the war, but there wasn’t a strategic centre like the Pentagon here. In 1969 the Americans began unauthorised bombing in this area and in 1970 joined with South Vietnamese forces for a big ground assault.

Geography

Svay Rieng is a small low land province with 2,966 square kilometres. Majority of land is arable land and it is under Mekong water half a year. It’s located in the Southeast of the country bordering Kampong Cham to the North, Prey Veng to the West and Vietnam to the East and South. The Southeast of the province occupies a jut of land sticking into Vietnam, so the Southeast of the province is literally surrounded from Vietnam. The province consists generally of the typical plain wet area for Cambodia, covering rice fields and other agricultural plantations. The land state is due to the American carpet bombing a real pity – no forests and cratered countryside are the results. The province also features two of the biggest rivers of the country (actually they symbolize the provincial borders) the Tonle Bassac and the mighty Mekong.

Population

The current population in this province is about 550,466 people or 3.8% of the country’s total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007, provincial government data), with 261,318 male and 289,148 female. The population density is therefore 185.6 people per square kilometre.

Climate

The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.

Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.

General information about the provincial climate:

- Cool season: November- March (24-32c)
- Hot season: March- May (28c -36c)
- Rainy season: May - October (24-32c, with humidity up to 90%.)

Economy

Svay Rieng’s economy consists basically of agricultural farming, fishery, rice and fruit cropping and some garment factories producing for international markets. Due to its location next to Vietnam there is some trade evolving in recent years. Especially the rural households depend on agriculture and its related sub-sectors.
The Svay Rieng Market is the place to change money. There are plenty of the telltale glass cases of the moneychangers along the front, as well as inside the market area. They readily change dollars, riel and the Vietnamese dong.

How to get there

Share Taxis/Bus:
Share taxis leave Phnom Penh from the Chbah Ampeau taxi park to head to Svay Rieng. The fare from Phnom Penh to Svay Rieng is 8,000riel. Grab an extra space for a bit more comfort (costs you more). Hour Lean Bus Company operates a daily direct connection from PP to Svay Rieng (cost $2, 3 hour ride).
If you come from the Bavet border crossing with Vietnam it might be a little bit difficult to find a taxi, as most of them prefer the more lucrative option of taking foreigners all the way to Phnom Penh. Try to find a taxi with other travellers and to stuff yourself for a 1-hour trip into the taxi ($1-2).

Motorbike Info:
Phnom Penh to Svay Rieng:
This trip is a fairly easy lone for motorcycles, as you can easily skirt the potholes that slow down the cars. Keep those eyes open, though, as the share taxis that ply this stretch from Phnom Penh to the Vietnam border all seem to be trying for the Cambodian Land Highway Speed Award. They do fly and they don’t let a little thing like a motorcycle hinder their flight.

Where to eat

There are some cheap food stalls around Phsar Svay Rieng for those, who want a faster and budget feed. Snack stalls are opening at late afternoon till the night along the river.
The following three restaurants are just east of Monument Circle and quite close to each other. They are all open throughout the day, starting at the crack of dawn with Chinese noodle soup and omelettes with French bread. All have signs and menus in English, and pleasant staff.

Svay Rieng Restaurant:
It’s a pleasant, small restaurant with Khmer and Chinese food.

Pich Restaurant:
This doublewide restaurant is very popular with the locals. They have some Western food as well as the usual Khmer and Chinese fare.

Rasmey Nimol Restaurant:
This corner restaurant catches a breeze better than the other two. They also serve up good food.

Serei Pheap Thmai Retaurant:
This is the one with the deck overlooking the water mentioned earlier. They have good food and the staff can speak English.

Boeng Meas Restaurant:
This nice little wooden restaurant is built on stilts near the riverside and is considered to be one of the best in town. All Khmer favourites are clearly listed on the proper English menu and the service is swift.

Where to stay

Tonlay Waiko Hotel: (tel: 044/945718)
This is the biggest hotel on side just 300m off the town including a restaurant and a nightclub. It was renovated in 1999 and now remains the best option in town. As the National Police Chief owns it, you can feel totally save. They offer quite spacious rooms with attached Western bathroom, satellite TV and video, air-con and fridge for about $10-25.

Santepheap Hotel: (tel: 011/682760)
This is one of the nicest guesthouses in town even if its room’s look quite used (old). The staffs are very friendly and eager to help in any way. They have rooms downstairs without windows and upstairs with one. The rate is $4 without bath and $5 including bath.

Vimean Monorom: (tel: 044/945817)
This is a fairly new place with rooms that feature two beds and a Western bath. The rooms are US$ 10 with a fan or US$ 15 with a/c. Going there you might have the impression of an old Soviet exterior.

The Three Guesthouses:
All on different sides of the same corner, these guesthouses have more than the location in common. They all have fairly well cleaned rooms and are US$ 4 a night without a fan, US$ 5 with.

Shopping

As it is quite common in Cambodia even small cities, such as Svay Rieng have at least one bigger market. You may also find a market in Svay Rieng centre (Phsar Svay Rieng), which is a very busy area with local shops dealing the local daily consumer products, like fish, fruits, vegetables, meats and packed products (a lot from Vietnam). Most of the food and drink shops are surrounding the market.

Where to see

Bavet International Border

Located 48 kilometers from Svay Rieng provincial town is the international border with Vietname. The Bavet checkpoint is the main international border crossing for people traveling between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City.
Bavet's main attractions are two casinos that are within short walking distance of the border. This casinos are very popular with foreigners crossing the border. There is also a market, Psar Nat, where goods are transferred between Cambodia and Vietnam.

Brasoth Center

Brasoth Center is located in Prasout Commune, Svay Teab district, about 1.5 km (10mn) from Provincial Town. Operation of Sporting Facilities.

Prey Ba Sak

Prey Ba Sake Located in Svay Rieng District at the Southeast of the provincial town in the distance of 8.5 kilometres from the provincial town. The area of Prey Ba Sak has 84 square meters and borders river of Vag Ko at the North and the East, village of local people at the west and the South.
The resort of Prey Ba Sak can provide income to the state and attracts local visitors to spend their visit and pleasure there. So, the resort is trending to develop for local visitors in Svay Rieng province due to their tradition, and for international tourists due to the real Cambodian culture and civilization. Prey Ba Sak located on the hill, the former place of ancient temple, which was completely damaged by war. Nowadays, in order to change this place to be the attractive site for local and international tourists, the provincial tourist office should initially rearrange the place and statues for local visitors to worship during festival days or their travel. Prey Ba Sak is the place, which has the most complex forest among others in Svay Rieng province.

Welcome Stung Treng

Stung treng

Stung Treng is a northern province of Cambodia. It was formerly called Xieng Teng and was once a part of the vast Khmer Empire, then the Lao kingdom of Lan Xang and later the Lao kingdom of Champassack. During the period of French Indochina it was again ceded to Cambodia.
The provincial capital is also named Stung Treng and is an important trade hub with a few hints of Lao influence scattered about, owing to the fact that the Lao border is about 50 km away. It’s a friendly, quiet country town situated on the confluence of the San River and the Mekong River. It actually sits on the banks of the San River, with the mighty Mekong coming into the picture on the northeastern outskirts of he town.
The San River goes by three names, depending on which of the locals you speak to. Some call it the Kong River because the San and Kong Rivers merge together about 10 km northeast of Stung Treng town, confusing people about which name the river should bear. Others call it the Sekong River, which is the combined name of these two rivers. Whatever name the fiver beside the town goes by, it’s another one of Cambodia’s beautiful picture-postcard river towns. It’s a nice place to kick back and chill out if you are on a circuit tour of the Northeast River Scene, from here to Laos.
The San River is fronted in Stung Treng by a nice stretch of paved road. It’s the centre of socializing (as in most Cambodian river towns) in the late afternoon and early evening hours as the locals ride up and down the stretch enjoying the view and each other.
Drink and dessert stands spring up earlier to serve the daily merrymaking crowd. It’s a nice spot for a walk or jog any time of the day as the river road turns into a pleasant rural road that leads to the airport 4 km north of town.
The river port area just in front of the small city park is fairly busy, handling trade between Cambodia and Laos. The ferry across the San River to where National Highway No 7 continues north to the Laos border is also at this pier. The fare is 300 riel per head. We went for a ride on this stretch (2,000 riel for taking a big bike on the ferry), but there is not much to see along the way besides light jungle and some remnants next to the road that was a target of carpet bombing during the Vietnam War years (the road was recently overhauled and is now one of the best in the country). The road works its way eastward so it does not afford views of the Mekong River as one would hope. The few residents we saw along the way were truly amazed to see the likes of us, who would want to be there.

Geogrephy

Stung Treng province, which covers an area of 11,092 square kilometres, is a remote and sparsely populated province in the northeast of Cambodia. It borders Lao to the north, Ratanakiri to the east, Preah Vihear to the west and Kratie and Kompong Thom to the south. The province is divided into five district, 34 communes and 128 villages.
Stung Treng is a unique province quite distinct from other Cambodian provinces in the Mekong basin. Extensive forests, intersecting rivers and streams and low population density characterize it. Stung Treng includes also the western chunk of the massive Virachey National Park, accessible from Siem Pang, a small beautiful town on the Tonle Kong. The province also features three big rivers the Tonle Kong, the Tonle San and the mighty Mekong with its hundreds of small islands scattered on the river stretch in Stung Treng Province.

Population

The population of Stung Treng constitutes just 0.7% of Cambodia's population. The population density is 7 people per square kilometre, which is nine times less than the national density. As the population is low and the province is endowed with natural resources, the immigration rate is very high. This fact has been proven by the population census in 1998, which shows that 19.4% of the province's population has migrated from outside, of which male migrants constitute 55%. The most commonly stated reasons for immigration were moving with family, followed by searching for livelihood.
Similar with other provinces, the female population is higher than the male population. The result of the census in 1998 demonstrates that 50.5% of the population is female. In Stung Treng, about 79.4% of the population are involved in the agriculture sector. The secondary and tertiary sectors account for 2.4% and 18.2% respectively. There are 54,488 male and 55,217 female with a total of 109,705person.

Climate

The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.

Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.

General information about the provincial climate:

- Cool season: November- March (18-26c)
- Hot season: March- May (27c -35c)
- Rainy season: May - October (26-34c, with humidity up to 90%.)

Economy

Stung Treng’s economy is based on fishing and silk weaving. However there is also some agricultural farming what is the smallest economical source of the province.
Hopefully the ministry of tourism can manage its newly created development plan.
The last river dolphins (Irrawaddy) in the Mekong River are at the heart of an ambitious development programme to tackle poverty and attract tens of thousands of visitors to the province. The Mekong River Discovery Trail Project will draw visitors to view the endangered fresh water dolphin, which lives in 10 deep-water natural pools in a 190-km stretch of the Mekong River, mostly between the quiet provincial capitals of Kratie and Stung Treng.

How to get there

Air:
There is no flight operating to this province yet.

Bus:
Coming from Phnom Penh, Stung Treng town is accessible via NH No 7 (348km). There are several bus companies, such as PPT and Sorya going daily to Stung Treng. The easiest way to get there is to buy a ticket at the central bus station southwest of the central market. Sorya goes twice a day, at 7am in the morning and 12am noon. The trip will take around 7-9hours and costs approx. US$8.

Bullet Boat to Kratie:
Unfortunately, the bullet boats usually don’t journey beyond Kratie. The stretch between Kratie and Stung Treng is loaded with small islands and clumps, with a fair number of dead trees thrown in for good measure. The journey is made only when the water is very high, which doesn’t occur during a good portion of the rainy season. When the boat is running it beats taking a share taxi as, unlike the road, the river affords a smooth ride. The trip downriver to Kratie takes around 4 1⁄2 hours and six to seven hours coming upstream from Kratie. As of May 2000, the bullet boat was running every other day at a fare of 20,000riel. If the boats are making the run, take it- it’s a pretty stretch of the river. It’s not sure if they still run, probably just occasionally.

Share Taxis/Pick-up:
Share taxis ply two routes from Stung Treng, one to Banlung (Rattanakiri) and the other south to Kratie.
For the trip to Banlung, bring food, water and mosquito repellent because if there is a breakdown (not uncommon) on this bumpy backwoods laterit road you may be caught in the jungle for the night. Share taxis usually go in groups in case of a breakdown, but as the other taxis are usually full as well, people do end up stranded and sleeping out in the elements at times. The five-hour trip stretches to seven hours during the rainy season (fare: $8-10 for taxi/$5-7 on the back of a Pick-up).
From Stung Treng to Kratie, the fare is about 20,000 riel.
Motorcycle:
Banlung to Stung Treng
The 146 km journey from Banlung to Stung Treng takes 5 1⁄2 hours during the rainy season, so knock at least an hour off of that in the dry season. The road is generally lousy, passing through areas of bomb craters that create deep lakes during the rainy season, but you can skirt around the perimeter of most of them. Where you can’t, the road goes zigzagging through the jungle, which is slow and slippery in the wet months.
Having said that, there are a few decent stretches and the last 19 km (after the road merges with Highway 7) are fairly easy ones. The same suggestion we made in the share taxi part of this section applies for riders on this road. Bring food, water and mosquito repellent. If you have a breakdown, there may not be anyone else coming by, depending on the time of day. It’s always best to get an early start to improve your chances if you do have a problem.
Stung Treng to Kratie
The recently new paved National Highway No 7 has now become one of the best roads in the whole country. The trip is 142 km and takes about 1 1/2 – 2 1/2 hours. There is no problem regarding security.

Where to eat

There are just a couple of restaurants in town, but if you are on a budget trip you’ll find nice very reasonable food just on the markets west front. There are some cookeries with quite a wide range of cheap Khmer, Chinese and Lao food open until the early night. Late afternoon the typical small stalls offering several fruit juices and delicious baguettes.

Mekong Blue:
This nice decorated café and restaurant halfway from the centre to the airport is not only a place to eat but to see beautiful silk weaving settled in a gallery style. They offer light Cambodian but also some Western food.

Arunreas Restaurant:
They make the most of their parkway location by having a small sidewalk eating area. It’s a pleasant enough early evening spot as the locals ride by on their evening motorcycle pleasure cruise. They have good food (Western and Khmer), and an English menu to go along with English-speaking staff.

New World restaurant:
This restaurant is just one block west from the market and offers a mix of Asian flavours from Cambodia, Thailand and China plus a fair selection of beers.

No Name Restaurant:
Located across the parkway from the Arunreas, this place is easy to spot, as it always seems to have Coca Cola and Player umbrellas set up. The food is tasty, but is prepared to try your hand at Khmer as they don’t speak English and there isn’t an English menu. The staffs are very friendly, though.

Kolap Stung Treng Hotel & Restaurant:
Good Khmer and Chinese food with an English menu and beer girls, to boot.

Where to stay

Sekong Hotel: (tel: 074/973762)
This ex-government hotel is located to the West of the boat port. It’s a very pleasant place with its nice layout and location next to the San River. Bib rooms with nice old wooden furniture and a Western bath are US$ 10 a night with a fan, or a whopping US$ 20 a night to flip on the a/c. They say the electricity is expensive in these parts. Better bargains are the simple rooms in the back of the complex. They have a fan and Western bath for US $ 5 a night. The friendly Khmer lady owner has her staff (family) head to the market for warm French bread in the mornings and serves it with espresso coffee.

Sok Sambath Hotel: (tel: 012/327677)
That’s probably the best hotel in town near the market area. The rooms are well tended with TV and creature comforts like hot water for those who are willing to spend an extra dollar. They also have a Chinese breakfast in the morning. The fan rooms are quite basic but come at a reasonable price for $7 for two.

Mohasal Hotel: (tel: 074/973999)
This place is situated in the far south of the town but is therefore a quite place. The air-con rooms are a bit old so it’s just worth to consider them for getting away from the trouble. The rooms have big ornately carved wooden beds. The price is around $5-10.

Preap Sor Guesthouse: (tel: 012/936235)
Clean and simple rooms with a Western bath for US$ 10 a night with a fan. It’s double what the price should be. Adding a/c puts the price at US$ 15.

Riverside Guesthouse: (tel: 012/439454)
This guesthouse is located next to the riverside in front of the station. It is a very friendly-run place wit basic fan rooms and bathroom. The staffs are very helpful but it’s mostly crowded with backpackers. The rooms are around $3-6.

Amatak Guesthouse:
Very basic rooms with a floor fan, bed and mosquito net. It’s clean and there is a share bath for US$ 5 a night.

Shopping

As it is quite common in Cambodia even small cities, such as Stueng Treng have at least one bigger market. You may also find a market in Stueng Treng centre, which is a bustling place, selling goods from Laos, Vietnam and, of course, Cambodia. There is also a small night market that sets up on the southwest side of the market, and there are also small drink and food market shops near the Preap Son Guesthouse on the opposite side of the market. To take something special from this province along, buy some precious handmade weavery.

Where to see

Fresh Water Dolphin

Nowadays the dolphins live mainly in the rivers and waterways of Kratie and Stung Treng provinces. The number of these mammals is estimated to be between 40 and 60 and they are often seen travelling in small groups of 6 to 10 individuals. The females usually give birth to young once every two years most often during the months of June to August. The young dolphins are about 1m in length at birth and suckle milk. By adulthood the dolphins can attain a length of over 2.5m and weigh up to 180kg. Their diet consists mainly of small fish, shellfish and snails. The dolphins can swim at speeds up to 40km per hour and stay submerged for periods between five and ten minutes.

Hang Kho Ba Pagoda

Hang Kho Ba Pagoda is the cultural and historical site, located at Hang Kho Ba Village, Hang Kho Commune, Steung Treng District in Six-Kilometer distance from the provincial town by the road to the airport, then turning left across the river of Se Kong. The pagoda of Hang Kho Ba is over 300 years. The local people there speak Lao majorly.
Steung Treng province has been recognized in two special characteristics:
- The province riches in sweet tamarind fruit.
- The province riches in Pa Si Yi fish
- Pava fish.

Kantuy Ko

Kantuy Ko is located in Samki Village and Commune, Steng Treng District, about 4 kilometers (15mn) from Provincial Town. It is the Nature Wildlife and Preserves.

Koh Ksach Resort

Koh Ksach Resort is located along the river of Se Kong in 5 kilometer distance from the provincial town. The site features a beautiful sandy beach, 2 kilometers long and one-half kilometer wide, where visitor can swim or relax. A natural site, it can be visited only during the dry season and especially popular during Khmer New Year.

Mekong River Trip to Laos

The Mekong River between Stung Treng and the Laos border is very light on population and heavy on beautiful scenery. Boulder outcroppings, numerous sets of rapids, swirling pothole currents, wide sweeping stretches of river and forested landscape along the banks all await the boat traveler. It makes for a great trip, either for the traveler that wants to continue on to Laos or for those wanting to enjoy a wild stretch of the Mekong in Cambodia.

The trip is difficult to downright impossible to make on this shallow stretch of the Mekong during the dry season, with cont less sunken islands and a virtual forest of trees growing right in the middle of the river. The trip becomes an obstacle course for the boat drivers this time of the year, as they carefully try to choose the best way to guide their craft through the maze that nature has created without losing a propeller to the river. The best time of the year to take this trip is from May to November when sufficient upstream rains have raised the river to a level that allows the boats to pass through carefully.

There is not a whole lot to do once you get to the border area, but travelers can leave their passport with Cambodian immigration (at the small checkpoint on the west bank of the river) and cross to the Laos side to eat at a riverside restaurant and look at the tiny market in the Laos village of Geedahn. Cambodian immigration officers may ask you see them, but it is not a fee set by the central government so you don’t have to pay it. There is also a guesthouse to stay at near this village (on the Laos side of the river, but a couple of hundred meters south along the riverbank where it is still Cambodia). Which was built here for border traders that lose the day light hours and need a place to spend the night. It’s a nice enough place, but overpriced, with a room that includes two big beds and a fan going for US$ 8 a night. Electricity is running between dusk and midnight. To take the trip, head down to the riverbank area (near the small bullet boats just east of the pier) in Stung Treng town before 8:30 am and talk to one of the operators of the small freight boats. The fare is 15,000 riel (one way) and the trip to the border area takes about 5 ½ hours, but is cut down to just over three hours on the trip back south as the swift current on this stretch of the Mekong pushes the boats right along.
If you want a faster journey, approach one of the small fiberglass boat operators, the ones that have the 40-hp outboard motors-they want US$ 20-$25 (one-way) to make the trip- but if you are looking for a quick trip or fast fun, the trip time going upriver is cut down to only 1 ½ hours. The slow boats are fast enough coming back downstream so you could save money by grabbing one of those on the return trip. For those wanting to cross into Laos using this route you will need a Laos’s visa in your possession and you also need to stop at the main police station in Stung Treng town (see map) to get a letter of permission to cross the border at this point. This is shown to Cambodian immigration will not let you stamp out of the country without this letter.

Ou Pong Moan Resort

Ou Pong Moan Resort is the natural and man-made resort which locates at Pong Moan village, Ou Pong Moan Commune, Steung Treng District in nine-Kilomter distance from the provincial town. The resort locates at the turning point to the provinces of Ratanakiri, Kratie and Steugh treng. At Ou Pong Moan resort, tourists are usually interested in:
- Ou Pong Moan has water source from the ground. The water source locates at 80-kilometer distance from the recreational site and flows all seasons. The water is suitable for swimming.
- At the riverside, there are small Kho Chos for leisure and resting.
- 10 Kwh electricity dam which is favorable for tourist development activities.

Phnom Preah Theat

Phnom Preah Theat is located in Thmey Village and Commune, Stung Treng District, about 2 kilometes (5mn) from Provincial Town. It is a Nature Wildlife and Preserves.

Preah Ko Temple

Preah Ko Temple is located in Intersection of Sékong River and Mékong River, Thla Borivat District, about 3.5 kilometers (10mn) from Provincial Town.

Pream Buorn Lveng Temple

Pream Buorn Lveng Temple is located in Kang De Sor Village, Thala Bariwatt Commune, Thala Bariwatt District, about 6 kilometers (15mn) From Province. It is the Historical Site.

Thala Barivat Resort

Thala Barivat Resort is located at Thala Barivat district in 4 kilometers distance from the provincial town. This area can be accessible by going across Se Kong river and Mekong river to the provincial road of Preah Vihear.
Thala Baricvat is the historical resort in which the Preah Ko timple built in 7-8 century, made of red bred during the feign of the king, Javvarman I. In front of the temple, there is a statue of Preah Ko ( sacred cow) available in Cambodia next to the Preah Ko statue, there is a space having 10-squar meter area for playing the game of Viey khil annually, before the Khmer New Year. The game played during four days and three nights. It starts in the afternoon at 2 O’clock and lasts for two hours. The game played during the festival of the ethnic minority of Kouy.
There are many small, ancient temples near the Thala Barivat, but most of them, such as Prambuon Lveng temple, Srei temple and Angkor Kmao temple have been heavily damaged over time.

Wat Phnom, Stung Treng

Wat Phnom, Stung Treng Borrowing the name of the famous land mark temple in Phnom Penh, this one isn’t high enough for a good view of the area, though you can see the mountains along the Lao border to the north. Anew wat is currently under construction on the site. River Scene, from Here to Laos The San River is fronted in Stung Treng by a nice stretch of paved road. It’s the center of socializing (as in most Cambodian river towns) in the late afternoon and early evening hours as the locals ride up and down the stretch enjoying the view and each other. Drink and dessert stands spring up earlier to serve the daily merrymaking crowd. It’s a nice spot for a walk or jog any time of the day as the river road turns into a pleasant rural road that leads to the airport 4 km north of town.
The river port area just in front of the small city park is fairly busy, handling trade between Cambodia and Laos. The ferry across the San River to where Highway 7 continues north to the Laos border is also at this pier. The fare is 300 riel per head. We went for a ride on this stretch (2,000 riel for taking a big bike on the ferry), but there is not much to see along the way besides jungle and the remnants of a road that was a target of carpet bombing during the Vietnam War years. The road works its way eastward so it does not afford views of the Mekong River as one would hope. The few residents we saw along the way were truly amazed to see the likes of us, would want to be there.

Wildlife

Cambodia is home to some of the most significant populations of mammalian wildlife in Asia. Endangered species such as leopards, tigers, bantams, gaur, barking deer and the near-extinct Kouprey – the Kingdom’s national animal and the world’s rarest large mammal – have been sighted off the beaten path. In addition, wild elephants still roam remote pristine forests and monkeys and snakes abound in mountainous areas. While the international market for endangered species poses a great threat to the preservation of the Kingdom’s wildlife, conservationists strive to research, document and preserve them.

Welcome to Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville province is a small southern province of Cambodia. The capital sits on a peninsula with beaches and tropical islands around. Sihanoukville (also known as Kampong Som or Kampong Saom) was founded in 1964 to be the only deep-water port in whole Cambodia. It is gradually being redeveloped as a tourist attraction, but despite the promise of massive Malaysian investment - a casino is planned for Naga Island - tourist numbers are still fairly low. Also its nice with sand beaches and several paradise islands have made it popular as a tourist destination.

In honour to the king, who fought for the independency of Cambodia the provincial capital was called Sihanoukville. Located in the southwest corner of Cambodia, 232km from Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville can be reached via National Highway N° 4. White-sand beaches that include O’chheuteal, Sokha, Pram Pi Chan, and Deum Chrey beautify this coastal city. These beaches are known for their quiet, cosy atmosphere and the large stretches of white sand and clear waters and these make them popular spots for families on vacation. These seaside paradises with the refreshing coolness of the fresh water streams can be enjoyed all year round.

Business opportunities in Sihanoukville are varied from financial activities to tourist and travel-related industries in conjunction with the government's objective of making Sihanoukville a major tourist destination besides its status as an International Offshore Financial Centre. The government welcomes both foreign as well as local investors to participate on a joint-venture basis.

This famous see side resort is formed by wide and huge streets and quite new big concrete buildings, which lost any impression of the former architectonical colonial style. As the town is not a small place due to it’s wide spread urban areas, the best way to get around is to hire a motorbike. Beside the nice beaches and some very nice vantage points there isn’t that much to see in the town itself. To catch a nice view on the city you best climb the small hill to Wat Leu. Wat Krom is another place of interest as this is a recently build pagoda, because the older one was destroyed by the Khmer Rouge and it houses a sanctuary called Yeah Mao, the guardian of the cost. Nearby to the town there are nice places for a detour such as the Ream National Park and the beautiful Kbal Chhay Waterfall.

Geography

Sihanoukville province is a very small province with 868 square kilometres surface. It’s located in the very South of the country and is bordering to the North with Koh Kong, to the East with Kampot and to the West and South with the beautiful Gulf of Thailand.
Most parts of the province belong to the peninsula showing a hilly face with some scattered forested areas. Most parts of the province consist of the typical plain wet area for Cambodia, covering rice fields and other agricultural plantations. The northeast of the province end on the hill foods of the Bokor National Park, a relatively big mountain range, which in the end symbolize the southern end of the mighty Cardamom Mountains.
The average altitude of the province is supposedly not higher than 40m above see level.

Population

The current population in this province is about 235,190 people or 1.6% of the country’s total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007, provincial government data), with 117,250 male and 117,940 female. The population density is therefore 271 people per square kilometre.

Climate

The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.

Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.

General information about the provincial climate:

- Cool season: November- March (20-28c)
- Hot season: March- May (26c -35c)
- Rainy season: May - October (24-34c, with humidity up to 90%.)

The best beach weather begins with the end of the rains in November. The dry, warm, breezy weather that follows lasts through January. Night temperatures can get down to a chilly 20° but the days hover around 28°-30°. Many think December and January are best with their balmy temperatures and blue skies.
At the end of January, Sihanoukville begins to warm and continues to get hotter through July (maximum 35°). After February, cool 'mango showers' occasionally blow in from the north. December through June is said by some local outfitters to be the best scuba weather with clearer (though cooler) waters than the rest of the year.

Economy

Because of the importance of exports to Cambodia's economy, Sihanoukville and its port are earmarked for further significant development by the local government and through international monetary support.
Sihanoukille is for sure largely tourism-based but additional financial and industrial initiatives are also underway. One major government objective is to make Sihanoukville a premier tourist destination as well as an International Offshore Financial Centre. Foreign and local investors are invited to participate in a range of joint business and financial ventures. The agricultural sector of Sihanoukville plays definitely not a big role in the provincial economy, as the rocky peninsula isn’t the place for cropping and such things.

How to get there

As Sihanoukville improves a lot in parts of trade, tourist business and other sectors, the road to Phnom Penh had to be rebuild properly. Now you can run the perfectly paved National Highway No 4 linking the capital with this seaside resort (230km).
The province could also be entered directly through Koh Kong Province from nearby Thailand, as more and more tourists do. It’s doable either by the bumpy Major Road 48 passing the edge of the Cardamom Mountains or by speedboat from Koh Kong town, next to the Thai border.

Bus/Minivan:
To & From Phnom Penh:
Bus relatively comfortable; a/c buses depart Phnom Penh several times per day (starting from 7am to 1pm). The price is around 12,000R -16,000R for the 4 hours ride. The buses start mostly at the southwest corner of the Central Market (Phsar Thmey). In Sihanoukville, all buses arrive and depart from the central bus station on Street 108.

Minivans and guesthouse buses like from the re-known Capitol Guesthouse in Phnom Penh is running daily minivans to Sihanoukville. Departs Phnom Penh at 7:1am. 14,000 riel one-way. Buying a round trip ticket will grant you a little discount. In Sihanoukville contact Capitol Tours on Ekareach in the middle of downtown. SHV to PP departs at 12:30pm.

Share Taxis:
Most share taxis depart Phnom Penh before 10:00am, though you can still find one into the mid afternoon. The price varies between $3-5/person. Shared taxis offer a cramped and harrowing 2 1⁄2-3 1⁄2 - hour ride with 8 or more people stuffed in a compact car. Private taxis run about $20-$25. In Phnom Penh taxis wait at the southwest corner of the Central Market (Phsar Thmey). In Sihanoukville, Phnom Penh bound taxies wait on Street 108.

Boats:
There are daily boats departing from Sihanoukville (500Baht, 4 hours) around noon for Krong Koh Kong. Most foreigners are unfortunately asked to pay 600Baht or $15. It’s worth the tour as you pass by some virgin beaches and nice costal formations.

Motorbike Info:
It is a 230 km, 4-5 hour trip on NH No 4. 200cc minimum. Rent motorcycles at Lucky Lucky Motorcycle on Monivong, near Street 184 in Phnom Penh or at Angkor Motorcycles on street 51 near the famous Walkabout Bar. Fast, easy, but still relatively dangerous road. Speeding taxis and reckless Lorries are the norm. Slow down through the villages, watch for slow animals and oblivious children. By all means wear a helmet and bear in mind that medical help and rescue is virtually non-existent in the countryside.

Air:
There has been a slight rumour in recent years, that the 13km airport near Ream has been renovated, but there are still no scheduled flights to Siem Reap for the temples-beach combo tour.

Where to eat

There is no shortage of restaurants in Sihanoukville; almost anything you want, you may get it. There are plenty of moderately priced Cambodian and international restaurants. Almost every restaurant offers Cambodian food. For the budget minded, check out the inexpensive Chinese places and the local food stalls and noodle cookshops next to the centre.
It would be a shame to leave town without savouring the delights of a meal of seafood, which unsurprisingly, is Sihanoukville's speciality, priced by the kilogram and cheaper than anywhere else in the country. If you prefer informality, you can buy your own fish and seafood in the market, and any other accompaniments you fancy, and get them cooked up at one of the beach stalls. There are thousands of shacks offering tasty and reasonable barbecue in the evening right next to the beach.

Snake House:
That’s one of the interesting places to eat. It’s a restaurant and Bar with Russian and International cuisine. An absolutely unique venue: a restaurant/herpetarium carved into the middle of a lush garden maze with dozens of terrariums containing rare and poisonous snakes, exotic lizards, and artificial tide pools. Reasonably priced international and Russian fare. Located between north and south Victory Beaches.

Villa Garden Restaurant & Bar:
This nice international restaurant and bar is located on the Ochheuteal Beach Rd. between Ochheuteal and ‘Serendipity’ beaches. Brand new upstyle al fresco restaurant/bar at the DevaRaja boutique guesthouse, offering a unique and eclectic selection of western and Asian favourites and unique chefs choices and creations, many with an emphasis on seafood - shrimp scampi, crab quesadillas, Thai basil crab cakes and of course the daily fish special. Full bar with draft beer, cocktails and a new slate pool table.

Khmer Gourmet:
Located at the Weather Station Hill this restaurant offers delicious Vegetarian, Mexican and Organic food. All vegetarian dishes employing organic ingredients as much as possible. Lots of special Mexican dishes, wraps, veg chilli, veg quesadillas, breakfast burritos and more. Organic veggies, organic brown rice, coffees, teas, and sugar, sourced locally. Memorable homemade desserts. Quality ingredients and hygienic preparation guaranteed. Sometimes Live acoustic music.

Where to stay

There is only one deluxe hotel in Sihanoukville - Sokha Beach Resort (5 stars), the town has plenty of places to stay in other lower categories. Accommodation here can get incredibly busy during public holidays and festivals, when it's as well to book if you want to stay at a particular hotel, though you are unlikely to be completely stuck for a place to sleep otherwise. Note that during peak season (Nov-March) and major holidays (particularly Khmer New Year), the hotels hike their prices 25%-30% above the normal price. It's worth trying to negotiate a more favourable rate if you plan to stay for a week or more, or if you arrive during the week (even during the peak seaon).

Ramada Hotel & Resort: (tel: 034/393916)
Unique hill top hotel overlooking the ocean near the Port. Newly refurbished a/c rooms with all modern amenities. International restaurant. Swimming pool. Tennis courts. Range: $75 - $120

Reef Resort: (tel: 012/315338)
Superior mid-range accommodation, clean, air conditioned rooms with modern furniture, in-room safe, cable TV, wireless internet access in all rooms, swimming pool with Jacuzzi. Quality restaurant bar serving premium western and Asian dishes as well as a full range of fine wines, beers and spirits. Professional slate topped pool table and darts, friendly service. Range: $30 - $70

Snake House: (tel: 012/673805)
Unique, ornate bungalow/rooms set in a quiet, lush garden setting. Tastefully decorated, single and double rooms with all amenities and balcony. Swimming pool. Exercise equipment/gym. Next to the amazing Snake House Restaurant. Near Victory Beach. Range: $20 - $25

Bungalow Village: (tel: 012/490293)
Charming hillside bungalows surrounded by 5000 square metres of fruit trees, flowers and large boulders. All with veranda, bathroom, fan and mosquito net, some with sea view and hotwater. Very nice restaurant offering excellent Asian specialties. Unique open-air cinema. Base of Weather Station Hill (Victory Hill). Range: $6 - $15

Shopping

Sihanoukville does not offer souvenir shopping comparable to Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, but Sihanoukville’s shopping opportunities are growing.
Several convenience stores/small supermarkets are now scattered across the town, offering a good selections of all of the usual traveller’s needs. And now there are even a few cool souvenirs to be had in Sihanoukville. There are some good T-shirts available at bars and guesthouses and some cool clothing and accessories for sale at places like Boom Boom Room. Of particular interest, the very popular NGO-based Cambodian arts and crafts association, Rajana, has just opened its first outlet in Sihanoukville, located above the Starfish Café.
The Rajana shop has a good selection of Cambodian arts and crafts, jewellery, textiles, coffees, spices and more. (012-789350, www.rajanacrafts.org.) Another local NGO, M’Lop Tapang, offers products made and marketed by disadvantaged women under the ‘Mother Under the Tree,’ Snardai project. Available at Holy Cow, Starfish Café, and Geckozy.
A souvenir unique to Sihanoukville: scale model wooden Cambodian fishing boats handcrafted by a local French shipwright. The models are detailed wooden miniatures of fishing boats used along Cambodia’s coast, and are accurate copies inside and out. Each is individually numbered. Available at Map Water Sports.

Where to see

Deum Chhrey Beach

Deum Chhrey Beach is located in fornt of the City Hall. Few tourists swim here because there is a big restaurant nearby. It is popular with tourists who like walk along the beach, however, because there is a picturesque park filled with statues, making site popular with photographers.

Independence Beach

Independence Beach gets its name from the deserted hulk of the 7 -storey Independence Hotel at the north end. Locals call this beach 'otel bram-pil chann (hotel 7-stories). It is labeled '7-Chann Beach' on the in-town street sign. Independence is more than a kilometer long, but the sandy area is much narrower making the beach best when the tide is low. The beach is wider and more tourists toward the northwest end near a small fresh water lake (which is the source of the town's fresh water and is rumored to contain crocodiles). At the other end is the beach's only hotel, Sea Breeze. Grass umbrellas and drink vendors only hotel, Sea Breeze. Grass umbrellas and drink vendors now line the beach from end to end but it is still much less frequented than other beaches. The road up to the old Independence Hotel is often frequented by a small troop of Rhesus monkeys but is currently closed while the hotel is undergoing renovation.

Kbal Chhay Waterfall

Kbal Chhay waterfall is located in Khan Prey Nup, about 16 kilometers north of the downtown Sihanoukville. To reach the site from Sihanoukville, take National Road 4 toward Phnom Penh. About 7 kilometers out side of town, there is a sign announcing the site. Turn left and go 9 kilometers along a trail. The water at Kbal Chhay comes from many sources along the mountain range, although only three of these sources are visible. The waterfall, which is 14 meters high, is at the point where those three sources joint.
Kbal Chhay was discovered in 1960. Three years later, it was developed into a reservoir to supply clean water to the city of Sihanoukville. The reservoir construction, however, was interrupted due to civil war, and the site became a hide-out for the Khmer Rouge. In 1997, Kbal Chhay was marked for development, and a year later Kok An Company was awarded a contract to construct a road and develop the site for tourism.

Koh Pors

Koh Pors is an island about 1 kilometer from Lomhe Kay beach, off the coast of Sihanoukville. The beach is flat and very quiet. It is attrachs few visitors, because it is undeveloped. Those tourists who do visit the island travel in groups and bring their own food.

Ochheuteal Beach

Ochheuteal Beach, known as UNTAC Beach in the early 1990s and it is now the most popular in Sihanoukville, offering the full spectrum of beach venues from upscale hotels and dining to laid-back budget beach bars and bungalows.

Ochheuteal is long, sandy and narrow, with 'Serendipity Beach' at the northern end, a golf-course development at the southern end, and a cluster of mid-range hotels and restaurants near the MP base in the middle. Grass umbrellas, rentable beach chairs and little drink huts line the beach from one end to the other.

It offers several nice hotels including the Seaside and Crystal, the mid-range Holiday, as well as some of Sihanoukville's better seafood restaurants, (Sea Dragon, Susaday, Sunshine and Les Feuilles), within walking distance of the hotels. Further south along the beach in front of the golf course develop-ment, a number of budget traveler/backpacker oriented bar/restaurant/beach hangouts have sprung up offering chairs, umbrellas, drinks and a chill-out atmosphere. At Ochheuteal's extreme northern end, Serendipity Beach' is the only beach in Sihanouk-ville to offer bungalows and guesthouse rooms right on the sand. Over the past two years Serendipity's popularity has grown exponentially, as have the number of bungalows, hotels, and restaurants. The beach now offers several mid-range and budget places including Coasters' well-known bungalows, Uncle Bob's 24-hour restaurant and budget rooms, and The Beach’s mid-range rooms. There are also places popping up on the hill just above the Serendipity such as Diamond Guesthouse and closer to the traffic circle, Sanctuary Bar and Guesthouse. To get to Serendipity Beach follow Ekareach Street straight through the Golden Lion Traffic Circle and UP and over the hill.

Phnom Leu

Phnom Leu is a nature and cultural site. There is a pagoda on the mountaintop, which offer visitors a panoramic view of the beaches and Sihanoukville international port. Most visitors are local people who visit the site during national festivals.

Ream Beach

Though not untouristed, the Ream Beaches see far fewer visitors than Sihanouk ville beaches. Located in the Ream National Park. Take Route 4 to the Airport road 18km north of town. Turn right, go 9km to the ocean. The beach to the right is long and narrow and frequented more by fishermen than tourists. Behind the beach is a mangrove swamp, which attracts a wide variety of tropical birds. The beaches to the left nearer the Naval Base now have a few vendors selling drinks and renting tubes. There is a small $5 per night guesthouse run by the National Park. Check at the park HQ opposite the entrance to the airport.

Ream National Park

Ream National Park, It is always called Preah Sihanouk National Park, the park has become known as “Ream” because it stays in the Ream commune. It was built in 1993, inaugurated in March 1995, and encompasses 21,000 ' hectares with sandy beaches, mangrove forests, the Prek Tuk Sap estuary, off-shore coral reefs and two islands (Koh Thmei and Koh Ses). Visitors may see macaques, sun bear, dolphins, over 155 species of birds, and other animals. Park facilities are not fully developed so it is best to arrange a guided tour such as a jungle walk or a boat trip at the Park Office (located 18 km north of Sihanoukville, 500m off Route 4 on Airport Road, opposite the entrance to the airport). The office is open 7 days per week 7 AM to 5PM and there are usually several guides of varying linguistic skill levels on hand. Park Office phone: 012-875096. Several guesthouses in Sihanoukville can arrange transportation and tours of the park.

Sokha or Serendipity Beach

Sokha Beach adjoins O'Cheuteal Beach. It is also long though the water is deeper than here. The beach was once more crowded than O'Cheuteal Beach, because Cambodians prefer it to the other beaches. However, Oknha Sok Kung's Sokha Hotel Company recently took over operations at the beach. The company is building up the area in hope of attracting more tourists to Sihanoukville.

Vistory Beach or Lomhe Kay

The beach is located in front of Koh Pors (Snake Island). It offers a number of services, including comfortable restrooms, fresh water and good transportation service to Koh Pors. Thus, many local and international visitors go to this beach. There are many well organized kiosks along the beach, the waves are not big, and invironment is clean.

Wat Krom

Wat Krom is located in Road Sanntipheap, Sangkat 3, Khan Miatpheap, about 3 kilometers (5mn) from Provincial Town.

Wat Leu

Wat Leu is located in Road No.24, Sangkat 1, Khan Miatpheap, about 6 kilometes (10mn) from Provincial Town.