Pailin

Welcome to Pailin

Pailin is a small municipality in the West of Cambodia very closed to the border of Thailand. The provincial capital is called Pailin City and is known to much of the world as being the area where many of the Khmer Rouge leaders came from and retreated after their fall. Until the year of 2001 Pailin was part of the Battambang Province, but was then elevated to city status and thus became a province and autonomous zone of its own.

The city was during the 1980s and 1990s a major Khmer Rouge strongpoint and resource centre. Even after the death of their brutal leader Pol Pot in 1998, many Khmer Rouge leaders still remained there. Some of the leaders went into hiding in fear of punishment for their crimes, although other leaders or henchmen lived openly in the province. It is said that almost 70 percent of the area's older men were fighters for the Khmer Rouge, but unfortunately none of the regular fighters have yet been brought to justice. As of September 2007, Pailin's remaining Khmer Rouge leaders were being rounded up to face justice by an international tribunal, including Khieu Samphan and Nuon Chea. So after years of the governmental dump contemplation regarding the crime of the Khmer Rouge, its time for lasting enlightenment of what has happen.

Poipet is now more and more becoming a boomtown attracting Cambodians from around the country seeking to make their fortune, or at least a better salary than back home. Pailin was the major revenue producer for the Khmer Rouge guerrillas, being a major gem producing area as well as a prime logging area.
While gem production seems to have tapered off a bit, other business opportunities and the lifestyle have attracted prospectors to the town. Up until the surrender deal of Khmer Rouge’s number three men, Ieng Sary, in 1996, the townsfolk lived under the strict rules of the KR hierarchy, with little freedom of expression and most aspects of life being completely controlled by the paranoid regime.

Pailin is just another Wild West town of Cambodia and like the gold-rush days of California, people seem to be everywhere in the hills sifting through mud puddles and scratching at the dirt, looking to strike it rich with the find of a nice gem. Still, there is more control of some aspects of life than in other areas of Cambodia.
But this seems to have attracted people rather than kept them away. Several people, who had moved to Pailin from Phnom Penh, gave this as the main reason they made the move. They liked the idea that criminals did not enjoy the same impunity that they seem to enjoy in Phnom Penh. The influx of residents from other parts of the country has produced a friendlier Pailin.

Nowadays the mixed lot of Pailin residents seem happy to see foreigners coming in for holidays and check the place out, realizing that their presence means that normalcy and revenue are arriving in Pailin.

Even the Vietnamese residents seem to have been accepted, which is truly amazing given the hatred the Khmer Rouge have generally shown them. Pailin is worth checking out. The town is nestled in a beautiful valley with picturesque sunsets over the mountains that separate Cambodia and Thailand close by.

Wat Gohng-Kahng is very famous and features the much-photographed landmark gate of Pailin town that you face as you arrive on the highway from Battambang. This wat is the centre of holiday festivities these days in Pailin and was the scene of the official Pailin reintegration ceremony in 1996, after the Ieng Sary faction of the Khmer Rouge worked out surrender and semi-autonomy deals with the Cambodian government.

Geography

Pailin City municipality is the second smallest so-called province in Cambodia with 803 square kilometres. It’s located in the West of the country surrounded by Battambang province and bordering Thailand to the West. In the North, the small municipality consists of the typical plain wet area for Cambodia, covering rice fields and other agricultural plantations. Pailin City itself is located on the foothills of Chuor Phnom Kravanh, an extension of the Kardamom Mountains, which range until here. The South of the municipality is quite hilly and tops with the highest altitude of 1164m. The province also features some smaller rivers coming from the mountain range.

Population

The current population in this municipality is about 35,234 people or 0.25% of the country’s total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007, provincial government data), with 19,059 male and 16,175 female. The population density is therefore 44 people per square kilometre.

Climate

The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.

Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.

General information about the provincial climate:

- Cool season: November- March (22-28c)
- Hot season: March- May (27c -34c)
- Rainy season: May - October (24-32c, with humidity up to 90%.)

Economy

The surrounding area of Pailin City was rich in a variety of gemstones which were mined almost clean to support the Khmer Rouge. They also logged the area to create personal wealth with no regard for the effect on the environment. Nowadays all you can find is low-quality, cheap, hand-faceted gemstones at the market in Pailin downtown.
After the exploitation of the natural resources available, the Khmer Rouge invested their money in the Casinos around Pailin.

Pailin is located in the most heavily mined area in the world, so especially unaware travellers are cautioned to stay only on marked roads.
Citizens of Pailin will accept Baht, Riels and US dollars, though US dollars are preferred.

How to get there

Minibus/Share Taxis:
For getting from Phnom Penh to Pailin please have a look on the Battambang Province Page. Coming from Battambang is the only wise thing to do, except if you’re coming from Thailand over the international border crossing. Pailin itself lies about 83km southwest of Battambang and is just 19km from the border with Thailand. The Major Road 57 from Battambang to Pailin has gone to pieces and makes it a pretty hard ride. The road can only be managed by smaller lighter cars such as minibuses, pick ups or share taxis due to its wimpy condition, but its still better than it was a couple of years ago, with many new bridges.

The scenery along the road heading to Pailin is nice and there are a couple of interesting places on the way. One is Phnom Sampeu, a mountaintop temple, which has memorials set up with skulls and bones of Khmer Rouge victims. It’s located 15 km from Battambang on the Pailin road. Security is not a problem. Never go off the street as there are many mines still remaining in the ground. The ride from Battambang to Pailin (4hours) with a share taxi or minibus costs around 160Baht and with a pick up 120Baht (inside) or 80Baht (on the back).

Pailin to Koh Kong
It’s now possible to make a journey from Pailin to Koh Kong through the scenic Cardamom Mountains of Pursat and Koh Kong provinces. This route takes in areas that are considered to be the most pristine and untouched in all of Southeast Asia. Ask the pick up drivers.

Cambodia-Thailand international border crossing:
The Cambodia-Thailand border crossing is just 19km west of Pailin town. It’s supposed to be a full-service crossing issuing tourist and business visas. Crossings however, can sometimes take its time while the border officers try to ask you for more money for the visa issue. The border opens daily between 7am and 8pm. To get from Pailin to the border crossing take a moto (50-100Baht) or a share taxi (40Baht). Don’t wonder about the two big casinos there, where mostly Thai people try to chase their luck. There is also a small market if you need something.

Motorbike Info:
There is also a breathtaking tour from Pailin to Krong Koh Kong (South) for hardcore bikers with plenty of off-road experience. It starts in the Treng district, just 25km East on the road to Battambang. Than it runs down South through former Khmer Rouge strongholds such as Samlot and Veal Veng, which is 275km from Pailin and the last place to refuel. Good luck!

Where to eat

There are small soup and rice shops all along the main drag and next to the market. They offer decent, cheap food.

Welcome Restaurant:
As the sign implies, this is a friendly place with an English menu and good food. They even have a Tiger Beer girl who is quick on the draw for those thirsty travellers.

Phkay Proek Restaurant:
The restaurant is located almost on the end of the ridge street. The local Khmer and Thai food served here is reliably good. This restaurant is part of an extended family of restaurants that have taken the west by storm, with branches in Battambang, Sisophon and Poipet.

Hang Meas Hotel & Restaurant:
Located just some steps upward the hill. Chinese, Thai, Khmer and a bit of Western food are served in this top spot of Pailin (English menu). The beer girls do double duty between the restaurant and nightclub.

Green Dragon Restaurant:
Thatched roof eating areas are next to the dusty parking area-it’s best to eat inside if you are going here.

Kim Young Guesthouse:
Also located just some steps from the market uphill. Delicious Khmer food and English menu are available.

Where to stay

The change since early 1997 is dramatic. There was only one choice, a guesthouse run by a one-legged former rebel. It featured a wooden bed with no mattress, no mosquito net, no electricity and bathing facilities that you didn’t want to use. There are a number of places now.

Hang Meas Hotel: (tel:012/787546)
This guesthouse is located west from the town’s centre in direction to the border crossing. It is probably one of the best ones in town. It is quite a new place in town and also by far the top digs. The rooms feature all the amenities (including satellite TV, h/w shower) and the hotel has twenty-four-hour power, a Pailin exclusives. US$ 11 gets you a nice room, with more tricked-out rooms going as high as US$50. Obviously, the owners are high on Pailin’s prospects. The hotel also features a restaurant and nightclub.

Kim Young Heng Guesthouse: (tel: 016/939841)
This guesthouse is located just some steps from the market uphill. They have some light and attractive rooms with fan or air-con and bathroom and some very small, windowless rooms. Prices are around US$5.

Hotel Lao Lao Kaing: (tel:012/712316)
This is a very basic guesthouse with fan (some with air-con) and bathroom. US$4-6.

Guesthouse:
That’s the only name on the sign. The rooms are small, but clean. The bathroom is to share, with fan, 150 Baht.

Hotel Neak Pak:
These are bungalows that have a large bed, Western bath, a/c, TV and fan. They are overpriced at 500 Baht.

Hotel Sang Phi Run:
There is a nice second-floor terrace with a view of the main drag and the mountains to the west. Most rooms are windowless, dark and stuffy places as the power is turned off in the middle of the night, which means you wake up sweating and bump your head on the way to the toilet. The cleaning leaves a lot to be desired. Mosquito net included, 300 Bath.

Shopping

As it is quite common in Cambodia even small cities, such as Pailin City have at least one marked. You may also find a market in Pailin City centre, which is very busy with local shops dealing the local daily consumer products, like fish, fruits, vegetables, meats and packed products mostly from Thailand. Most of the food and drink shops are surrounding the market. To take something special from this province along, buy some small gems from the gem shops, but be aware of fakes.

Where to see

Bah Hoi Village

Bah Hoi Village You will pass through an internal refugee camp from different areas of the country that were formerly under khmer Rouge control and are now in the hands of the government. The people feel more safe around their own kind (ex-Khmer Rouge) and with the Pailin faction of the Khmer Rouge still having effective control of the area; they don’t worry about government soldiers hassling them. The people are quite friendly and don’t mind a chat.

Border Crossing & Casino Area

Border Crossing & Casino Area The locals refer to this area as simply Pbrohm. This was a main lifeline of the Khmer Rouge during the years of fighting with the government. Food, supplies and weaponry were brought over from Thailand here.

The action today is of the gaming type with the Flamingo Casino open for business and another under construction. The casino sees a lot more business than the one in town, as the Thai people that represent the vast majority of customers like the idea of staying within spitting distance of Thailand. So if you like tossing money away, you have several choices in Pailin. There are also a few seedy looking karaoke bars with ladies working near the casinos and border. As for using Pailin as a border crossing to and from Thailand: The Thais have no problem with it and will issue you a Thai visa or stamp you out between 7 am and 5 pm. The problem is on the Cambodian side as the immigration police say that it’s not an officially sanctioned crossing and there is no way that a foreigner can cross here. So for now it’s best to sticks with Poipet and Koh Kong for land crossings. Getting to the border is the interesting part.

About 5 km on the way from Pailin is a small wooden bridge going over the Oh-chah-rah River. The water coming down from the mountains is clean, so a swim here is an inviting prospect. You also pass by the bombed shell of a tank, reminding you which side of the border you are on. Tank bodies just sit where they die in Cambodia and simply become another part of the landscape. The border is easy to get to –just the one turn on the map. It takes just under a half hour and is around 180 baht for roundtrip moto-taxi.

Goh-Ay Mountain

Goh-Ay Mountain The destination here is a river that’s great for a swim. Definitely for the dry season if you want to be a bit more adventurous and see more of the area. Your best bet is to talk to the guys’ at the English school next to the Hotel Sang Phi Run if you want to venture out this way, as they can help with direction or take you out there. Definitely stay on the worn trails by the river area. There are landmines around.

Kbal O'Chra

Kbal O'Chra is located O'Chra village, Toul Lwea Commune, Kan Pailin, about 5 kilometes from Provincial Town. It is a Nature & Wildlife Preserves.

O'Eb Resort

O'Eb is a natural site located in Sangkat O'Chras, Khan Pailin about 10 kilometers northwest of Pailin city along the road to Bo Yakha and Bo Tang Sour. It has a waterfall.

O'Tavao

O'Tavao is located in Sangkat O'Tavao, Khan Pailin, about 5 kilometers from Pailin city. It is a natural site rich in beautiful scenery and clean water, which flows from Phnom Khieu.

Phnom Koy Resort

Phnom Koy is located in Sangkat Stung Kach, Khan Sala Krao, about 20 kilometers north of Pailin city. Phnom Koy is a national site rich in forest and big lianas. A natural stream flows down this mountain.

Phnom Yat

Phnom Yat is a cultural and historical site located in Pailin City. It is not a holy place where people come to worship, but also the heart of Pailin City.

The mountain is 60 meters high, 700 meters long, 300 meters wide and covers 30, 000 square meters. The top is accessible on foot or by vehicle. A staircase of 242 steps, each step about 25 centimeters high, was completed on Oct 13, 1998.

The site includes an old pagoda similar to Kola pagoda. It was built on the hilltop by the Kola people in 1922. The are many ancient structures on Phnom Yat, including the big and small stupas and Asroms (the hermitage, a place for meditating). The area holds many superstitions for Pailin residents and some visitors.

Although a wealth of gems already have been mined in Pailin, the hill is till believed to hold more. Many kiosks, or small cottages, are available for visitors to relax in on the mountaintop.

Steung Kuy

Steung Kuy is located in Phnom Kuy Village, Sangkat Sala Krau, Sala Krau District, about 20 kilometers (1hours) from Provincial Town. It is a Nature & Wildlife Preserves.

Wat Phnom Yaht

Wat Phnom Yaht This is the hilltop temple next to Wat Gohng-kahng. The temple is a good example of how things have changed in Pailin since the surrender deal. A number of moths after the deal a friend and I had a conversation with the head monk of the temple and he said that he still felt very intimidated by the local authorities, all ex- Khmer Rouge. He was strongly discouraged from giving Buddhist instruction to the townspeople. With the influx of Cambodians from other parts of the country and a change of heart for some of the ex-KR, the temple has seen a rebirth.

There is a beautiful new decorative stairway leading to the hilltop temple area, where a new temple is under construction and the monks openly teach the faith. Obviously, respect for monks has risen, and temple projects are receiving a lot of donations. Great views of the Pailin area and the dynamite sunsets over the Border Mountains can be had from the hilltop.

Wat Rattanak Sopoan

About 50 meters from the foot of Phnom Yat is another pagoda, What Rattanak Sopoan. On the walls of the fence surrounding the pagoda is a bas-relief depicting the story of Churning of the Ocean of Milk (Cambodian calls Ko Samutra Teuk Dos) which is similar to the wonderful base-reliefs on the wall of Angkor Wat.

Waterfall

Waterfall Like all waterfalls, the rainy season is the best time to go with the water flowing best then. But there are still pools of clean water to cool off in during the dry season and the heavily forested hills provide nice scenery. Locals and folks on holiday from Battambang come here on weekends and holidays and the well-worn pathways and picnic spots are safe for your use. Hiking to the upper level brings you to more pools. Your best bet for getting out here is to take a moto-taxi or have one lead the way, as there are several turns on unmarked small roads

Oddor Meanchey

Welcome to Oddor Meanchey

Oddar Meanchey is one of the smallest provinces of Cambodia located in the far Northwest bordering with Thailand. Its name means “Victory Province” and the provincial capital is called Samraong. This area was formerly known as Phanomsok, a province of Thailand, which was ceded to French Indochina in 1906, and now remains a part of Cambodia. This province is also a recent creation that was carved out of Siem Reap Province, which the government did not control for much of the 1980s and 1990s.

The countryside is covered by the Dangrek Mountains (or escarpment, as they are sometimes called), which was an optimal shelter for the Khmer Rouge to hide. It is a very remote province that has been a notorious place, because this is where he nastiest of the nasty Khmer Rouge made their last stand. The diabolical Pol Pot and his seemingly bloodthirsty henchmen, Nuon Chea, Ta Mok, Son Sen and Khieu Samphan holed up here for the last years of the Khmer Rouge’s existence (another of the henchmen, Ieng Sary, already worked out a surrender and defection deal with the government in 1996).

Pol Pot died mysteriously here, after a supposed power struggle within the power elite (he had Son Sen and his family murdered) and after a controversial show trial. The debate focused on whether it was real or just a sham staged for the outside world to try to legitimize remaining Khmer Rouge figures. The trial took place in the power centre of the Khmer Rouge, the village of Anlong Veng. Pol Pot died mysteriously after he was sentenced to house arrest and the international community began real efforts (for the first time ever) to capture and put this butcher on trial. His henchmen had more than enough reasons to believe that he wasn’t dead at that point, because a Pol Pot on trial, as the ringleader most responsible for the genocide wrought upon his fellow countrymen, would probably have tried to shift portions of the blame (rightfully in the case of these guys) to the rest of the power elite.

The Khmer Rouge kept fragmenting after that and Nuon Chea and Khieu Samphan worked out a surrender-amnesty deal with the Cambodian government and Ta Mok (also called “The Butcher”) was subsequently captured and is still awaiting a trial in Phnom Penh. As of March 2000, the United Nations and the Cambodian government finally seem set to come up with an agreement on putting the top surviving members of the Khmer Rouge regime on trial in Cambodia, with assistance from and in a partnership with the International Community. Stay tuned though, as this has been a real political football with seemingly more concern for one-upsmanship and personal gain than justice for the dead and surviving victims of Khmer Rouge brutality.

The international border is 14.5 km from the circle in Anlong Veng (Anlong Veng-Choam-Choam- Srawngam and O Smach-Chong Jom). There are plenty of tanks and tank shells to look at along the way and also a strange site in the form of a boulder that had Khmer Rouge soldiers carved out of the sides of it- they have all been decapitated since government forces took control of Anlong Veng. Anyway, it’s an interesting little ride to a low-lying part of the Dangkrek Mountains. The road is in fairly good shape with the exception of the climb up a rocky hillside near the border.

Geography

Oddor Meanchey province is 6,158 square kilometres big. It’s located in the far Northwest of the country and is bordering to the North with a lengthy borderline to Thailand, to the East with Preah Vihear, to the West with Banteay Meanchey and Siem Reap to the South. In the North the province consists of the re-known Dangkrek Mountains, which are more or less the hill foods of the massive mountain range (the real Dangkrek Mountains) coming from Thailand. There is a nice interesting wildlife sanctuary called Kulen Promtep in the Southeast of the province. The rest of the province is an agricultural used strip, where the illegal logging of the 1980s and 1990s shows its rampant face.

Population

The current population in this province is about 102,835 people or 0,7% of the country’s total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007, provincial government data), with 52,650 male and 50,185 female. The population density is therefore 16,7 people per square kilometre.

Climate

The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.

Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.

General information about the provincial climate:

- Cool season: November- March (22c-28c)
- Hot season: March- May (27c -35c)
- Rainy season: May - October (24c-32c, with humidity up to 90%.)

Economy

The province’s economy is 93% based on farming and the remaining other 7% are based on fishing and trading. Because of its border with Thailand, the international trade is also booming and becoming another important sector of the province’s economy. There is several developing plans from province based NGO’s, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs from Thailand and Cambodian government itself. The economy and infrastructure of the province was sustainably destructed during the Khmer Rouge stand and needs therefore a whole new stabile backbone.

How to get there

Bus/Share Taxis:
If you wish to go to Anlong Veng you best come from Siem Reap via Major Road No 64 (distance: 142km). The time of journey vary depending on the season between 4-6hours. The easiest transport mean is a share taxi, which will charge you around US$4-5.
Anlong Veng is also connected by reasonable roads to the provincial capital Samraong (US$4) in the West and Prasat Preah Vihear to the East.

Coming from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap: (Bus)
Several guesthouses, travel agencies and bus companies offer daily bus transport between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. It is a smooth 314 km, 5-7 hour trip. The bus makes at least two stops along the way (at Skun and Kampong Thom). All charge the same, $3.50 (14,000R) one way. The earliest buses depart starting at 6:30AM and that last buses between noon and 1PM. Neak Krorhorm Travel :
Phnom Penh office at the corner of Street 110 and Sisowath Quay. Siem Reap office opposite the Old Market

GST:
Phnom Penh bus station near the southwest corner of Phsar Thmey (Central Market).

Phnom Penh Public Transport Co.:
Phnom Penh bus station near the southwest corner of Phsar Thmey (Central Market).

Coming from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap: (Share Taxis)
Local shared taxi: 25,000 riel per person. Departs from southwest corner of Central Market in Phnom Penh. 5-8 hours Private taxi: US$38-$45 for the whole car. 5-6 hours. Due to rising fuel costs, prices are in flux.

Motorbike Info to Anlong Veng:
The road to Siem Reap is in good condition, but driving in Cambodia is still challenging in the extreme, and should be attempted only by experienced riders. Speeding taxis, slow cows, and oblivious children are the norm. The trip calls for a dirt or road bike, no smaller than 250cc. It can be made in a day, but two days with a layover in Kampong Thom is a more relaxed alternative and allows time to visit the pre-Angkorian ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk.
Leave Phnom Penh via the ‘Japanese Bridge’ and follow National Highway No 6 75km to the North. You’ll reach the Skun intersection (Skun is known for its exotic foods - check out the fried spiders, turtle eggs and more at roadside stands.), where you have to turn left and follow NH 6 to Kampong Thom - about 2-3 hours. In Kampong Thom, the Arunreas Hotel (062-961294), Stung Sen Royal Hotel (012-309495) and Mittapheap Hotel are all decent mid-range places. Arunras Guesthouses and Restaurant next to the hotel is the place to eat cheaply. From Kampong Thom to Siem Reap the trip takes another 2 hours. From there you’ll have to search the Major Road 64 to Anlong Veng. This will take you another 6h on bumpy unpaved dirt roads through monotonous dry forest changing sometimes to jungle sections.

Going to Samraong: (Share Taxis/Pick Up/Motorbike)
Heading west on the NH 6 from Siem Reap you’ll reach an intersection after 51km. Turn right and you enter after some 100m a small town called Kralanh (US$1.5 from Siem Reap or Sisophon). From here you take another pick up or share taxi to the North on laterit-paved and bumpy Minor Road 68 (US$2-3, 2-3hours, 65km). Sometimes you can find early taxis leaving to Samraong from Siem Reap (US$4-5).

Where to eat

As Samraong isn’t big at all you will easily find the central market with several food stalls around offering saucepans of pre-cooked food for around 2,000-3,000 Riel a serve. Unless the pots are still hot, it’s a good idea to have them hear your servings up again so that you don’t get more than you bargained for like getting sick. If you would like to go more for some sophisticated food, check the Santepheap restaurant (one of the best in town), where you might find some proper dishes, but don’t expect Western food.
The best restaurant in town is only open for breakfast and lunch. A friendly English- and French speaking Cambodian gentleman and his family run it. They can make up most Thai Khmer dishes that you may wasn’t and also serve a good breakfast of eggs, French bread and coffee.

The restaurant scene in Anlong Veng is similarly limited as in Samraong. There are several local food stalls around the central roundabout offering some local dishes at very reasonable prices – mostly its typical Khmer and Chinese noodle dishes.

Where to stay

Actually Samraong has never been a big touristy spot so you’ll just find some very basic guesthouses clustered near the dirty little market, which is advantageously located right next to the taxi station.

Rikreay guesthouse:
This is a simple but clean place with a bed, mosquito net, fan (for a part of the night, as electricity may shut down) and share bathroom going for 10,000 riel.

Meanchey Guesthouse:
The Meanchey Guesthouse is likely the most conclusive one among these with some NGOs visiting. This place is similar to the Rikreay, only the power stays on for twenty-hours, which means your fan should stay on all night. A room with a share bathroom, net and fan is US $ 4 and a double room with a simple bathroom inside of it is $10 - expensive for what it is but you are paying extra for the power. The US$ 4 room is so to say the better deal.

In fact that there aren’t that much tourists staying overnight there are 3 very basic guesthouses in Anlong Veng. The most convenient one is the Reaksmey Angkor Guesthouse in the North of the small town. You will find quite clean rooms with mosquito net and a bathroom. The price is around 15,000-25,000Riel.

Shopping

As it is quite common in Cambodia even small towns, such as Samraong have at least one marked. You may also find a market in Samraong centre, which is a busy area with local shops dealing the local daily consumer products, like fish, fruits, vegetables, meats and packed products. Most of the food and drink shops are surrounding the market.

Where to see

Champei Waterfall

Champei waterfall or Laang Ta Thong waterfall is 35 kilometers northeast of Odda Meanchey provincial town. A natural site, is includes a huge boulder that measures 500 meters squar. There is also a mountain valley on both sides of the waterfall and the surrounding area is full of flowers, particulary orchids.

About 500 meters from the waterfall, there is a natural and cultural site organized by the monks who meditate at the site. Known as Ruot Champei, it has a number of statues that describe the life process from birth until death, as well as other religious and wildlife statues.

The provincial tourism office is organizing and developing other attractions in Oddar Meanchey province, including: Tonle Sar site, O'Angkrong site, Sneung temple, Tropiang Baray, Por Temple, Kuy Plantation, Beung Snor, Tumnub Thmei and Toul Kruoy, a killing field during the Khmer Rouge regime and the site of a Khmer Rouge prison.

O' Smach

O'Smach is on the Cambodian-Thai border, about 41 kilometers north of Oddar Meanchey provincial town. The town features a resort which includes a number of casinos, good restaurants and luxury hotels. The resort has been organized by the Royal Group and VIP Shop Group companies.

The Cultural Site Of Khmer Rouge (Tamok House)

In Anlong Veng district, along Road 68, about 100 kilometers east of Oddar Meanchey provincial town, is a house once owned by former Khmer Rouge Commander Ta Mok. From 1979 until late 1997, this area was organized and controlled by the Khmer Rouge armies. Some remaining statues describe the way the rebels lived and how they arranged their troops during their bloody struggle against the government.

In additional, in the forest is a pile of tires which is believed to be the funeral pyre and burial site of Pol Pot, the leader of Khmer Rouge. Many tourists go to Anlong Veng to see and photograph the sites and activitues associated with the former regime, and the government has discussed turning this area into a historical site to attract even more tourists.

Mondulkiri

Welcome to Mondulkiri

Mondulkiri is an eastern province of Cambodia, which is the most sparsely populated province in the whole country although being the largest province in Cambodia. The province is chock full of natural beauty, with thickly forested mountains, powerful waterfalls and the lush green rolling hills of the western side. Despite the growing deforestation, especially due to the valuable minerals remaining in the deep red, fertile ground, Mondulkiri has still one of the biggest successional woodlands of Cambodia. Except being in Sen Monorom, you’ll find deep pure jungle, with a huge variety of flora and fauna. You may also find gigantic and beautiful waterfalls, where you can take an empowering shower, such as the impressive Bou Sraa.


Sen Monorom is the provincial capital and doesn’t show up as a typical Cambodian town, while it is the only town the province has to speak of. With approx. 7500 inhabitants, 20 guesthouses, 12 restaurants, 3 bars and no post office it is often compared to American Wild West frontier towns. Concerning the quietness and beauty of Sen Monorom people from other parts of the country move here and therefore the land price doubled from 2006 to 2007.
The town of Sen Monorom is the best base camp for travellers who want to explore the surrounding areas. A quiet but beautiful town nestled into the hills; it has a lot of potential to develop into a centre for non-intrusive eco-tourism. At present, it’s very undeveloped, which gives you a feeling of going somewhere off the beaten tourist trail. Add to that the communities of hill tribe people, who are not affected by mass-tourism, as they are in neighbouring Thailand, and you have an area that is very attractive to the adventure traveller.


Also interesting is the variety of languages being used: Khmer, hill tribe languages, Vietnamese and Lao. 80 percent of the population in Mondulkiri is made up of ten tribal minorities, with the majority of them being the Chunchiet from the tribe of the Phnong. The remaining 20 percent are Khmer, Chinese and Muslim Cham. Most of the population lives off the land, planting rice, fruit trees and a variety of vegetables. Others grow, coffee, strawberries, rubber and cashew nuts. More and more houses are built in the typical Khmer style. Visiting the hill tribes you still can find the traditional Phnong houses. In the houses you can find traditional gongs and big jars, whereby the last ones are said to be more than a thousand years old. There are various sorts of gongs used for different occasions. Jars and gongs are among the most valuable possessions in an indigenous community, whether in traditional, spiritual or material terms. During the Khmer Rouge Regime those objects were buried in hidden places in the jungle and in many cases they still wait in the ground.

Geogrephy

Mondulkiri province is situated on the South - East plateau (approx. altitude around 200-1000 metres), it’s capital Sen Monorom is about 375 Km from Phnom Penh. It is bordering Vietnam to the East and South, Ratanakiri to the North, and Kratie province to the West.

Beside a bunch of smaller rivers, which grow quite big during the rainy season, there are two bigger rivers crossing the province ( the Preaek Chhbaar and the Preaek Te River ). The total area of Mondulkiri is about 14,288 square kilometres.

Population

80 percent of the population in Mondulkiri is made up of ten tribal minorities, with the majority of them being the Chunchiet from the tribe of the Phnong. The remaining 20 percent are Khmer, Chinese and Muslim Cham. Most of the population lives off the land, planting rice, fruit trees and a variety of vegetables. Others grow, coffee, strawberries, rubber and cashew nuts.

Usually they make their living through traditional ways of cultivation (shifting agriculture), hunting and collecting fruits from the forest is a must. These old cultures believe in spirits, derived from their animism beliefs. The population density has a total of 44,913 inhabitants (22,890 male and 22,023 female). This is 3,14 inhabitants/sq km.

Climate

Mondulkiri province has a climate like the other areas in the country, there are 3 seasons:
- Rainy season: June - October (<25c)>20c)
- Hot season: March- May : Temperature: from 20c -30c

Mondulkiri's average temperature throughout the year is definitely lower than in other areas of Cambodia (except Ratanakiri Province).

Economy

The vast majority of the indigenous peoples living in Mondulkiri are subsistence farmers, who are planting some rice and other vegetables, more or less to feet themselves. There is also a quite common production of the famous rice wine here, which is one of the best in the country. Additionally the indigenous people are selling handmade products such as bracelets, necklaces, scarfs, Kramas etc. to the few visiting tourists.

Mondulkiri has a quite big influence from Vietnam, which shows you the marked in Sen Monorom. Lot’s of Vietnamese products are sold here.

Unfortunately in the past 2 years the selling of real estate became a big source of income due to the fact, that international mining companies are buying land to find bauxite (a very valuable mineral). The worst are instances of dispossession of indigenous lands, which are occurring in some parts of the province and also in the adjacent province of Ratanakiri.

Anyhow Mondulkiri is so sparsely populated that the provincial capital does not have an adequate market compete to other provinces of Cambodia. But fertile red soil, water sources, wild animals and quality hardwoods abound and the weather and scenery are perennial assets.

How to get there

By bus:
Coming from Phnom Penh it will at least take a whole day to manage the trip to Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri. Mostly there are only small buses during the dry season, as the road gets slippery and impassable for buses.

By pick up:
This is definitely the easiest and fastest method to go to Mondulkiri. There is quite a lot of pick up’s leaving Phnom Penh near the Sorya bus station (street #80) to go to Mondulkiri. As they mostly overload the pick up’s, make sure you’ll have a seat inside or you’ll have to join the windy and quite incomfortable loading area. The average price is about US$10-14 for the whole ride.

By plain:
Actually there aren't any regular commercial flights to Sen Monorom. M.A.F (Mission Aviation Fellowship) is flying a 6 seat light plane, it usually flies twice a week and will carry passengers if not full.

Motorcycle Touring Info:
The ride passes by some beautiful and diverse countryside, regardless of which direction you are coming from. Security is not a problem these days.

Kratie to Mondulkiri
If you are coming on the bomb-cratered highway from Kratie, go straight when you get into Snoul town, and when you come to the crossing of the road, which leads to Kampong Cham, there is another one (laterite surface) to Mondulkiri you have to take. After about 7 km you come to a four-way junction, where you turn left to Mondulkiri. Snoul to Mondulkiri is about 130 km, and if you are coming from Kratie the entire trip is about 215 km. The trip is one of the nicest you can make by motorbike in the whole country, but you need to do it during the dry season as the road can get one of the worse during the rainy season. The unpaved dust road is nowadays under construction and will definitely become better in oncoming times.

Kampong Cham to Mondulkiri
Kampong Cham to Snoul turn off (to go to Mondulkiri) is a doable stretch of Highway 7. It’s about 143 km to Snoul and 275 km for the entire trip. Just before you reach Snoul town you will notice a police box on the right. The road curves to the right and left, and you go to the right to reach Mondulkiri. About 7 km down you will come to a four-way junction where you turn left for the ride to Mondulkiri.

The road from Snoul to Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri, is a decent, level dirt variety that you can make fairly good time on. This changes during the rainy season when rainfall will make the wet surface as slippery as ice. Food and fuel can be purchased in Snoul town. You’ll have another opportunity to gas up or to buy some food on the half way from Snoul to Sen Monorom as there is a bigger village right before you enter the densely wooded area.

Sen Monorom to Banlung, Rattanakiri
If you want to go by motorcycle from Sen Monorom to Banlung, Rattanakiri, and it is rainy season, read the section entitled “The Death Highway” or follow this simple advice: don’t do it. Even in the dry season, it’s a tough trail that will put your riding skills to the test. Make sure you have spate parts for your motorcycle (see Getting Around chapter for out Biker Checklist), and plenty of food and drinking water. The trip will take about two days during the dry season and Kaoh Nhek town (near halfway) is the only place that sells bottled water and some food. Fuel is also available. Don’t do it alone. It’s best to have some help if you have a bike breakdown or a mishap. You are a long way from help in most stretches of this remote trail. It would also be best to bring a Khmer speaker along, as the trail intersects sometimes with other trails and you will want to clarify that you took the proper way when you do come across somebody. It’s definitely an adventure, if you try to tackle it, be fully prepared so you have an opportunity to enjoy it. (Further details are available in the Ratanakiri province guide.)

Where to eat

Because this is a small and little-developed tourist destination, the restaurants don’t think about serving tourists. There just haven’t been many coming to Sen Monorom. And with the locals usually eating at home, the restaurants don’t stock much food. The procedure here is to go one our before to the restaurant you would like to eat and tell them what you would like to eat. You can leave then, while they go to the market to buy the ingredients and return to the restaurant to prepare the dishes. An alternative would be to stop by in the morning and tell them what you want for lunch or evening meal. It’s certainly not the norm at destinations around Cambodia, but here it seems to work out okay.

Anyhow there are more restaurants opening during the last 2 years, which serve mostly Khmer or Vietnamese food. You might ask them to combine something for a more European style.

Pich Kiri.
It’s actually the oldest accommodation place in Sen Monorom serving their guests also fresh, tasty and reasonable dishes. It’s located east from the market next to the street leading to the centre.

Holiday Guesthouse.
It’s also next to the street leading to the centre, but a bit further away. They have a small restaurant offering quite common Khmer dishes.

Arun Reah 2 Guesthouse.
This guesthouse is 1,5km far from the centre on the main road, which goes to Snoul. It covers also a small restaurant offering a limited menu.

Corner Restaurant.
There isn’t a name, but it’s easy to find. It’s a very simple place, but they do a good job concerning the food and they have drinks with ice. The prices are very reasonable. It’s right next to the centres round about (two buffalos).

Twin Restaurants.
There are two restaurants near the entrance area to the market. They double as community entertainment centers; local residents gather outside to gaze at videos on the TV screens inside. They can also serve the necessary karaoke hall function.

Bananas.
If you’re eager to have some real European food made by a European you’ll need to visit the Bananas. The wodden house next to a tiny creek is owned by a German woman named Tanja. She is a cook and cooks on request. The dishes are real good and quite reasonable. It’s situated down the hill from the centre and then left before you pass the bridge.

Where to stay

Long Vibol Guest House and Restaurant. (Tel: (012) 944 647, (012) 823 054)
This nice guesthouse with a lot of bungalows is situated past the Sen Monorom airstrip. It feels like that this guesthouse is far more targeted towards the ngo crowd rather than independent travellers and backpackers. Mr Vibol speaks fine English, though when we visited he appeared to be pretty weary of answering backpacker questions. The restaurant here dishes up some good food; e.g. the steamed fish looked particularly good, but the preparation of the food takes quite a time. The room rates are from US$8-30, depending on what you want to be included and for how much people.

Pich Kiri. (Tel: (012) 932 102, (012) 316 108)
It’s actually the oldest accommodation place in Sen Monorom and for the budget traveller it remains the best choice. Rooms are very clean and kitted out with TV, cold-water showers and massive wooden chairs. Motorbikes can be rented here and trekking and elephant riding can also be organised. It’s located east from the market next to the street leading to the centre.

Holiday Guesthouse. (Tel: (012) 936606)
It’s also next to the street leading to the centre, but a bit further away. They have a small restaurant offering quite common Khmer dishes. The room rates are around US$8-10.

Arun Reah 2 Guesthouse. (Tel: (012) 856667)
This big guesthouse is 1,5km far from the centre on the main road, which goes to Snoul. It covers also a small restaurant offering a limited menu. They have nice bungalows with wonderful views over the rolling hills. The room rates are around US$10.

Nature Lodge.
It's the first accommodation option outside Sen Monorom. Located in a magical valley 2 km above the town, it is surrounded by the misty hills of the Mondulkiri highlands. The lodge is for people who like to explore for themselves, it's not in any guidebook, just follow the signs and you will find us. The room rates are varying so come and have a look yourself.

Shopping

Many of the goods in the market are from nearby Vietnam, It’s an all-purpose market, but it doesn’t have the feel of the typical Cambodian market, which is probably again due to the closeness of Vietnam and the hill tribe people who come here.
There are definitely some nice bracelets, adornments or Kramas made by the hill tribes acquirable. You’ll find noodle, dessert and fruit stalls at the font end of the market and the moneychangers are in front as well. They change dollars, riel and the Vietnamese dong.

Where to see

Bou Sra Waterfall

Busra waterfall is located in Pich Chenda district about 43 kilometers northeast of Mondulkiri provincial town, Sen Monorom. Busra is considered by many to be the most beautiful waterfall in Mondulkiri. The waterfall is divided into three stages:

• First Stage: The waterfall fall is 8 to 12 meters high and 15 meters wide in rainy season and 10 to 15 meters wide in dry season.
• Second Stage: The waterfall fall is 15 to 20 meters high and 20 meters wide in rainy season and 18 to 25 meters high and 13 meters wide in dry season. The second stage is 150 meters from the first stage.
• Third Stage: The speed of waterfall is faster than the second stage. This stage cannot be reached because it is in the thick forest. There are no marked paths and dangerous wildlife inhabits the area.

Chrey Thom Waterfall

Chrey Thom Waterfall is located at Sen Monorum District in 43-kilometer distance from the provincial town. During the dry season, the waterfall has 15 meters height and 2 meters diameter, and during the rainy season, the waterfall has 11 meters height and 8 meters diameter. The waterfall fall us near a plantation of Srolao trees and a big, branchy Chrey tree.

The provincial tourist service is working with the local authority to prepare this site as a tourist destination in place of Busra waterfall, which is inaccessible during rainy season.

Fishing

Fishing although there is nothing organized as of yet. Mondulkiri's rivers and streams would probably make for some good fishing. Bring your own lightweight gear and give it a try. Sen Monorom would be a great place for mountain biking. There are now no rentals there, so you would have to bring one along on the airplane.

Market Life of Hill Tribe People

Market Life of Hill Tribe People Mornings are the best time of the day to hit the town market and stroll about. This is when many people from the various area hill tribe communities come to the market to sell their wares and purchase supplies. It’s a good environment in which to unobtrusively observe their attire and with their permission; possibly get snapshots of them going about their normal business at the market.

Memang Gold Mines Area

Memang Gold Mines Area is 45 km (3h) From Provincial Town.

Description: Natures & Wildlife Preserves.

Location: O'Clor Village, Mémorng Commune, Keo Seyma District.

O Taing Laing Waterfall

O Taing Laing Waterfall is 60 km (4h) From Provincial Town.

Description: Natures & Wildlife Preserves.

Location: Memorng Commune, Keo Seyma District.

Old & New Wat (Pagoda)

An old wooden temple on the hills at the south end of town i9s being revitalized with the construction of a brand new modes new model next to it. This is where the monks of Sen Monorom teach.

Pahlung Village

Pahlung Village It’s possible to go on an elephant trek at this small village. It’s a good idea to come out here the day before (possibly on your way to Bousra Waterfall) to organize it so they have the animal ready to go the next morning, instead of out working in the jungle. You can take a half- or full day trip in the surrounding area. It’s good to wear long pants and bring some mosquito repellent, drinking water and food.

To get there, just head north from Sen Monorom. When you get to the fork in the road, go right. The village is about 8 km from town. People in the small houses on the right can fetch the elephant guy for you. If you go by moto-taxi, the driver can help with the translation of arranging the tour. The guy at the town tourist office, if you can ever find him there and he’s not sleeping. Can also set the tour up for you. But he takes a cut. Figure around US$ 15 for a half day or US $ 30 for a full-day tour.

Phnom Nam Lear Sanctury

Phnom Nam Lear Sanctury is 80 km (4h) From Provincial Town.

Description: Natures & Wildlife Preserves

Location: Pichinda District Border of Daklak Provinece (Vient Nam)

Phnom Prich Sanctury

Phnom Prich Sanctury is 75 km (8h) From Provincial Town.

Description: Natures & Wildlife Preserves

Location: Kaev Seima District.

Plantation of Pinetrees

On the highlands in Sen Monorom district, about 6 kilometers from the provincial town, is a large pine tree plantation where hundreds of towering pine tree, planted before 1970, are growing in rows. Fallen needles from the trees turn the ground into a golden carpet. The needles are so numerous that visitors can lie on the ground without disturbing them.

Pine trees are believed to have been planted before then Prince Norodom Sihanouk founded his Sangkum Reastr Niyum regime, at which time the province was created.

In addition, according to hunters in the province, there are more than 60 waterfalls, both big and small, making Mondulkiri province a potential source for hydro electric power.

Pou Lung Village

Pou Lung Village is 10 km (15mn) From Provincial Town.

Description: Historical Sites and Buildings

Location: Pou Lung Village, Mumnea Commune, Sen Monorom District.

Rum Near Waterfall

Rum Near Warerfall is located at Sen Monorum District in 10.5 kilometer distance from the provincial town. The waterfall has good location, which is closed to the industrial plantations like rubber, coffee, cashew, mango, Avocado and Pres as well.

The waterfall is 5 meters high and 10 meters wide in the rainy season, in dry season, it is 6 meters high and 8 meters wide and flows smoothly past tall shade trees and toward a large basin that is suitable for swimming or bathing.

Sen Monorum Waterfall

Sen Monorum Waterfall is located at Sen Monorum District in five-kilometer distance from the provincial town by red soil trail, Along either sides of the trail, there are industrial plantations like rubber, coffee and cashew as well. The local people usually meet each other at Sen Monorum waterfall during the holidays and national festivals because it closed to the provincial town. Sen Monorum waterfall has three stages:

- First stage: The waterfall has slow speed, one-meter height and 2-4 meter diameter.

- Second stage: During the rainy season, the waterfall has strong speed, 6-7 meter height and 8-meter diameter. During the dry season, the waterfall has 7-9 meter height and 4-5 meter diameter. At the waterfall, there is a large space of resting and enjoying.

- Third stage: Locates at one- kilometer distance from the second stage. The waterfall has 1.5-meter height only.

Southwest Waterfalls

Southwest Waterfalls The waterfall about 5,5 km to the southwest of town is a nice and easily accessible sight. There is a fair-sized pool below the 7,5 meter waterfall that makes a good spot for a swim or picnic. To get there, just follow the map and don’t turn off of that road, as it takes you to a parking circle near the top level of the waterfall. If you don’t have a motorcycle already, hire a moto-taxi to take you out there for 4,000 riel per hour and a bit extra for fuel (1,000 riel)